Chapter 16 - Removing Tint

Sometimes it is necessary to remove tint from the hair in order to apply a new shade. There are three means of doing this:

1. A Clairol Remov-zit treatment
   
   
2. Bleaching with any Lady Clairol Creme Hair Lightener
   
   
3. A Remov-zit treatment followed by a later application of bleach.

The following factors will help you select the best method: the time the patron can spend, the condition of the hair, the degree of tint removal required to make the color change desired.

Bleaching To Remove A Tint

This is the most popular method of removing tint because new color may be applied the same day. Usually a patron does not have sufficient time for the 24-hour waiting period necessary between a Remov-zit treatment and application of fresh tint. She desires a lighter color on her hair the same day.

For this purpose you may use any one of the following mixtures recommended for the patron's hair type:

1. When the hair needs to be lightened only a few shades, it can be done with Clairolite, Lady Clairol (without Lightening Booster), or Ultra-Blue mixture (without Protinator).
   
2. When an extreme change in color is required (For example: hair tinted Black Velvet or Sable Brown is to be lightened for application of Chestnut Brown) a stronger bleach mixture must be used to lilt the color sufficiently. Use Lady Clairol with 1 or 2 envelopes of Lightening Booster or Ultra-Blue Lady Clairol with 1 or 2 envelopes of Protinator.
   
   
3. When hair already has too much tint and is strong and resistant, use Clairol Blue Lightening Powder Bleach or Ultra-Blue Lady Clairol and 3 envelopes of Protinator.

Bleaching Application Tips

Mixing and application of bleach for removing a tint is done using the method described for virgin hair (See pages 82 to 85). Use the additional tips listed below to insure best results.

1. Using narrow fiber brush or applicator, apply mixture to darkest portions of hair first and allow to lighten a little before application to rest of tinted hair.
   
   
2. If regrowth is light enough and color is to be lifted from the shaft and ends only, confine the bleach only to the areas to be lightened. When regrowth must also be lightened, apply bleach to this portion last since it requires much less time to reach shade desired.
   
   
3. Always make small partings for application.
   
   
4. Strand test frequently. Time required for treatment will vary according to texture of hair and degree of lightening required.
   
   
5. It is usually unnecessary to bleach beyond the red-gold (fourth stage) unless an extreme color change is desired.
   
   
6. If a single bleaching treatment does not lighten hair sufficiently, a second application may be given the following day. This is some times necessary when hair is resistant or over-tinted.
   
   
7. When hair is light enough after treatment, but too much red or gold remains, drabber may be used. This may be determined by a preliminary strand test. (See pages 88, 89.)
   
   
8. When a new shade is to be applied the same day, be sure hair is rinsed and shampooed thoroughly, then dryed before beginning coloring treatment.

Clairol Remov-Zit

If you prefer to use a remover for penetrating tints and compound hennas, one of the most effective products is Clairol Remov-zit. It removes sufficient tint for application of fresh color, but does not leave the hair pure white or lighten natural pigment. Therefore, it must not be used as a substitute for a bleach.

The number of treatments necessary to remove the desired amount of color depends upon the tint product used for coloring, its effect on the hair, and the number of treatments hair has been given. Naturally, the more thoroughly the tint is impregnated in the hair shaft, the more treatments will be needed to lift it.

It may be noticed occasionally after a Remov-zit treatment that the color seems to have been removed unevenly. This can be caused by uneven application of the product. However, if brush application of Remov-zit has been made correctly and hair has been evenly saturated, then you may assume that hair has been unevenly pre-bleached during some previous retouch treatment. Remov-zit, in this case, cannot make the color even. Bleaching will be required on the dark portions, especially if the patron desires a lighter shade. If a darker shade is desired, no bleaching is necessary.

When you are giving a series of Remov-zit treatments, you may discontinue treatments when you find no noticeable change from one treatment to the next.

Preparation Of Remov-Zit

Remov-zit package consists of two powders packaged separately, one in a gold and one in a silver envelope. The steps in using them follow:

1. Dissolve the contents of the gold envelope in one ounce of hot or boiling water in a glass container. Do not use a metal container.
   
   
2. Dissolve the contents of the silver envelope in one ounce of hot or boiling water in a second glass container.
   
   
3. Now mix the two solutions together in a glass dish and stir.

In a Remov-zit treatment, the number of packages needed depends upon the quantity and length of the hair. Usually two or three of each package are required. It is important to remember that equal quantities of the contents of the gold and silver envelopes must be used. One ounce of hot water must be added for each individual package.

There are occasions when a further diluted solution should be used. These are covered in "110 Case Histories", pages 159 and 166. But for maximum effectiveness in regular color removal, it is important to use the product full strength . . . one ounce of water for each package.

Application Of Remov-Zit

1. Do not brush hair the day treatment is given. Cover patron with a rubber cape or similar protection and seat at the shampoo basin.
   
   
2. Place a towel between the patron and the shampoo board or sink. This towel will absorb any excess drippings that flow off the hair. No pre-shampoo is necessary.
   
   
3. Before application is started, check temperature of mixture to be certain it cannot burn patron's scalp or cause discomfort. Apply the Remov-zit with a swab or brush. A small paint brush is best. Apply to the portions of hair which are to be decolorized.
   
   
4. Pile the hair on top of the head. Hair must be saturated until it will not absorb any more moisture.
   
   
5. Wrap towel that has been used to catch drippings around head. Be sure towel is damp. Never wrap dry towel around head as it will dry hair.
   
   
6. Place the patron under a steamer or heating cap for 30 minutes with the towel around head. The heat will hasten the action.
   
   
7. Rinse the hair with clear, warm water after 30 minutes. Do not use hot water.
   
   
8. Shampoo thoroughly with Clairol Shampoo for Bleached and Toned Hair.
   
   
9. Give a very thorough final rinse with warm water. This final rinse is necessary to stop the action. It will, at the same time remove a great deal of the odor which results from this type of treatment. Odor may be minimized by rinsing hair with a solution of a few drops of concentrated oil of lavender in a pint of water.

24-Hour Waiting Period

Twenty-four hours should elapse between the application of Remov-zit and the use of any tints, bleaches, pomades, lacquers, clips, bobby pins, or wave lotions. This allows time for the maximum action of the dye remover. If less time is taken, it is possible for the hair to darken and sometimes revert to the color it was before the Remov-zit treatment. This necessitates starting the treatment over again.

When a series of Remov-zit treatments is given, it is preferable to space them a few days apart. On the other hand, Remov-zit can follow immediately after Metalex or other treatments.

Coloring After A Tint Remover Treatment

Hair treated with a tint remover will, in some cases, be quite porous and take coloring more easily. Because of this, when tinting after a tint removing treatment, it may be necessary to use a shade lighter than the final color desired, except when using Miss Clairol which has its own lightening action. On the other hand, some hair becomes resistant to color because of its natural texture. In this case, the tint has to be left on for a longer period and may need pre-bleaching, especially if a shampoo tint will be used.

These factors should be determined by a preliminary strand test. If, during the test, the strand quickly becomes a deeper color or goes black, this indicates that a longer waiting period is necessary before applying the tint or bleach.

If you know in advance that a patron is planning a color change requiring removal of the present tint shade, it is well to give several Metalex treatments first. This will keep the hair in the best possible condition. (See page 90.)

Professional Case Histories

On the following pages, 110 Professional Case histories analyze problems brought to Clairol by hairdressers from all over the country. We hope you will find in these histories answers to your own questions.

If you have any problems which they do not answer, remember to write or call your local Clairol representative or the Clairol Institute of Haircoloring, 510 Sixth Avenue, New York 11, New York.

No.                  Title                                                                           PAGE
1.                     Coated Hair — Rinses                                               154
2.                     Coated Hair — Crayons                                            154
3.                     Coated Hair — Metallic Dye                                     154
4.                     Coated Hair — Metallic Hair Restorer                       155
5.                     Coated Hair — Compound Henna                             155
6.                     Coated Hair — Camomile Tea Rose                          155
7.                     Coated Hair — Temporary Streaks                           155
8.                     Coated Hair — Temporary Coloring                          156
9.                     Tinting Over Coated Hair — Certified Rinses             156
10.                   Henna Pack Interferes with Permanent Waving           156
11.                   Henna Pack — Too Time Consuming                        156
12.                   Test for Metallic Salts                                                156
13.                   Dull, Gummy Hair                                                      157
14.                   Resistant Hair                                                            158
15.                   Over-Porous Hair
                        Difficult to Tint or Permanent Wave                            158
16.                   Relieving Snarls and Tangles on
                        Tinted and Bleached Hair                                           159
17.                   Discoloration — Colored Bleaches                            159
18.                   Gray Discoloration — Drab Oil Bleach                      159
19.                   Red or Orange Discoloration — Red Oil Bleach        160
20.                   Green or Blue Discoloration — Silver Bleach             160
21.                   Discoloration
                        Bleach or Tint Over Penetrating Rinse                        160
22.                   Orange or Pink Discoloration
                        Under-Development                                                  161
23.                   Red Tones when using Black Colors                          161
24.                   Too Much Red in Drabbest Shades                           161
25.                   Red Colors — Gray Hair Turns Orange                     162
26.                   Red Colors — Not Enough Red                                163
27.                   Red Colors
                        To Brighten Red Highlights on Tinted Hair                  163
28.                   Red Colors — Ends Do Not Hold Color                   163
29.                   Red Colors — Purple or Mahogany Tones                164
30.                   Red Colors— Dark Ends                                          164
31.                   Red Colors- Faded  Ends                                          164
32.                   Green Discoloration — Rinse on Bleached Hair         164
33.                   Green Discoloration
                        Permanent Wave Over Hair with Blue Rinse               65
34.                   Green Discoloration
                        Permanent Wave Over Compound Henna                  165
35.                   Green Discoloration — Chlorinated Water                 166
36.                   Green Discoloration — Under-Development              166
37.                   Green Discoloration
                        Blue Rinse on Yellowed White Hair                           166
38.                   Blue Discoloration — Ermine or Starlight                   167
39.                   Gray Hair
Attempted Permanent Blueing Treatment                    167
40.                   Unsatisfactory Tint Results — Systemic Causes          167
41.                   Light Roots with
                        Miss Clairol on Previously Tinted Hair                        168
42.                   Unsatisfactory Colors —Too Dark                            168
43.                   Roots Too Dark                                                        168
44.                   Color Uneven From Colored Shampoos                    169
45.                   Dark Ends                                                                 169
46.                   Fading Color                                                             169
47.                   Color Too Weak                                                       169
48.                   Insufficient Bleaching with Miss Clairol                       170
49.                   Lightening Virgin Hair                                                170
50.                   Returning Tinted Hair to Natural Color                       170
51.                   Changing Tinted Hair to Lighter Shade                       171
52.                   Color Too Drab                                                        171
53.                   Drabbing Out Red and Gold Tones                            171
54.                   Changing Tinted Hair to a Much Lighter Shade           171
55.                   Uneven Toning — Gold Streaks                                172
56.                   Light Streaks on Tinted or Bleached Hair                   172
57.                   Sun-Streaked Hair                                                     172
58.                   Faded or Streaked Ends — Virgin Brown Hair          172
59.                   Faded or Streaked Ends
                        Virgin Blonde or Red Hair                                         173
60.                   Very Dark or Black Ends                                          173
61.                   Correcting Dark Streaks                                            173
62.                   Avoiding Streaked Hair— Colored Oil Bleaches        174
63.                   Avoiding Dark Streaks at Temples                             174
64.                   Permanent Wave Leaves Hair Too Light                    174
65.                   Coloring Over New Permanent                                  174
66.                   Permanent Waving Over-Bleached Hair                     175
67.                   Bleaching Dark or Resistant Hair                                175
68.                   Bleached Hair Breakage Test                                     175
69.                   Breakage — Over-Bleaching                                     176
70.                   Over-Bleached Sections of Hair                                 176
71.                   Silver Blonding on Uneven Gray Hair                         177
72.                   Over-Silvered Hair                                                    177
73.                   Hair Too Silver                                                          177
74.                   Over-Silvered Hair — Too Blue                                177
75.                   Uneven Toning — Too Much Silver                           178
76.                   Silver Shades Turn Brown                                         178
77.                   Changing Color Over Silver Blonde                           178
78.                   Eliminating Gold Spots in
                        Ash, Silver and Platinum Blonding                              179
79.                   Quick Spot Toning                                                    180
80.                   To Modify Red or Gold Tones in Tinted,
                        Sun Bleached, or Permanent Waved Hair                   180
81.                   In-Between Toning Treatment
                        for Silver or Ash Blonde Hair                                     180
82.                   Silver Blonding Salt and Pepper Hair                          180
83.                   Making Partially Gray Hair Completely Gray              181
84.                   Tinting Gray Hair — Streaks                                      181
85.                   Yellow Discoloration in White Hair                            181
86.                   Insufficient Color — Additional Gray Hair                  182
87.                   Resistant Hair — Hard to Bleach                               182
88.                   Platinum Hair                                                             182
89.                   Dye Removing, Stripping
                        Inadequate Application                                              183
90.                   Dye Remover— Final Results Uneven                        183
91.                   Objectionable Odor After Dye
                        Remover Treatment                                                   183
92.                   Bleaching Following Dye
                        Remover Treatment — (After 24 Hours)                    184
93.                   Tinting After Dye
                        Remover Treatment — Resistance to Color               184
94.                   Tint Directly After Dye Remover Treatment                184
95.                   Bleaching — Patron is Allergic to Color                     185
96.                   Hard Water - Insufficient Lather                                 185
97.                   Irritation of Hands From Bleaches                              185
98.                   Itchy Scalp                                                                185
99.                   Scalp Stains in Patches                                              186

100.                 Staining Scalp with Tint                                              186
101.                 Staining Skin with Tint                                                186
102.                 Bleach or Tint in Eye                                                  186
103.                 Oversensitive Scalp                                                   186
104.                 Unused Tint                                                               187
105.                 Solid Tablets versus Liquid Peroxide                          187
106.                 Miss Clairol Foams After Standing                             187
107.                 Tint Too Thick                                                           187
108.                 Slow Color or Bleach Development
                        Low Temperature                                                      188
109.                 Bleach Mixture Too Frothy                                        188
110.                 Tint or Bleach Mixture Too Frothy
                        Impure Developer                                                      188

1. Coated Hair-Rinses

PROBLEM: Customer is about to receive a permanent wave, but the hair is heavily coated and excessively dry. CAUSE: Hair has been exposed to too many hair rinses. SOLUTION: To insure a better wave, and avoid the possibility of discoloration, the coating should be stripped off. This can be done with a Metalex Treatment. The hair is saturated with the Metalex, then heated for 30 minutes with either a heating cap or a steamer. The coating will then be removed and the hair will be reconditioned, leaving it in a workable condition. If the coating is excessively heavy, several treatments may be needed.

2. Coated Hair-Crayons

PROBLEM: Gray hair, treated with a hair crayon, is hard to cover.

CAUSE: The hair crayon coats the hair and makes it difficult for the color to penetrate unless the hair is first shampooed. SOLUTION: In order to save time and energy, the shampoo can be avoided with the use of Miss Clairol. Apply the Miss Clairol mixture to be used throughout the head, starting with portion covered with crayon. As soon an entire application is finished, wipe off crayon-covered area with towel. Reapply Miss Clairol mixture to cleansed area.

3. Coated Hair—Metallic Dye

PROBLEM: Hair does not permanent wave or tint successfully, because customer has previously used a metallic dye.

CAUSE: Metallic dyes coat the hair and therefore must be removed before a permanent wave, tint or bleach is applied. If this is not done, discoloration or breakage will result.

SOLUTION: Give a series of Metalex treatments. When sufficient coating has been removed and hair feels normal, give a strand test with either the coloring mixture or the bleach, or a test curl for the permanent wave. If the results are satisfactory, you may continue with your tint, bleach, or permanent wave treatment. If the results are not satisfactory, that means metallic salts still remain in the hair and more Metalex treatments should be given.

4. Coated Hair—Metallic Hair Restorer

PROBLEM: Bleaches, Miss Clairol or any penetrating color treatment fails to work on hair previously treated with a hair restorer. Discoloration (purple, green, black) or breakage results.

CAUSE: No bleaches or penetrating coloring can be successfully applied to hair treated with any of the so-called hair restorers. These preparations coat the hair and cause it to discolor or break when bleaches or tints are applied over it.

SOLUTION: In order for bleaches or coloring to penetrate, the coating must be removed. A series of Metalex treatments will do this. The number of treatments needed depends upon the degree of coating. When the hair begins to feel normal, make a strand test with coloring to predetermine results. If unsatisfactory, continue Metalex treatments.

5. Coated Hair—Compound Henna

PROBLEM:   Permanent wave, tint, or bleach over compound henna causes hair to discolor or break.

CAUSE: Compound henna coats hair, making successful permanent waving, bleaching or tinting impossible.

SOLUTION:  Give series of Metalex treatments. Then take strand test for color, or a test curl for the permanent wave. If the strand turns green or gets hot, the hair is still excessively coated and stained and must be treated intermittently with Metalex and Remov-zit  (Remember, the 24-hour waiting period after the use of the Remov-zit applies here too.) Repeat the strand test or test curl. If unsatisfactory, continue Metalex treatments.

6. Coated Hair-Camomile Tea Rose

PROBLEM: Patron using Camomile rinses for a long period of time may have difficulty getting a successful permanent tint.

CAUSE: Camomile tea coats the hair, thus making it difficult for solutions to penetrate. SOLUTION: Remove the coating with Metalex treatments.

7. Coated Hair—Temporary Streaks

PROBLEM:  Patron has used temporary powders for streak effects. These make tinting difficult or cause discoloration.

CAUSE: Powders or greases used for this purpose are temporary colors and obtain their effect by coating the hair. This interferes with the penetration of a tint or bleach.

SOLUTION: Remove the coloring before applying tint or bleach. A shampoo will remove the coloring if it has only been used once or twice. However, if it has been used over a period of time, use a Metalex treatment as shampooing will not remove the coloring. Metalex should also be used if discoloration has resulted.

8. Coated Hair-Temporary Coloring

PROBLEM: Patron has coated hair from the use of hair sprays that contain temporary coloring. This coating makes tinting difficult and often causes discoloration.

CAUSE: These products interfere with the penetration of tints.

SOLUTION: Use Metalex treatment. One treatment is usually sufficient.

9. Tinting Over Coated Hair—Certified Rinses

PROBLEM: Hair is so badly coated that it is difficult to bleach or tint. CAUSE: This is something that often happens when certified rinses have been used on a patron's hair, and have been doubled and tripled in strength in order to obtain same coverage of gray. SOLUTION: Coating must be removed. This may be done with one or two Metalex treatments.

10. Henna Pack Interferes With Permanent Waving

PROBLEM: Sometimes the coating left after a henna pack interferes with permanent waving.

CAUSE: Many applications of henna has coated hair heavily.

SOLUTION: Give a Metalex treatment to remove the coating. A series of treatments may be necessary.

11. Henna Pack-Too Time Consuming

PROBLEM: Henna pack may be objected to because applications are too time consuming.

CAUSE: If hair is very dark, henna is not very effective.

SOLUTION: Henna packs can be adequately substituted for by using Miss Clairol Red Ginger. Similar effects can be produced in from 5 to 10 minutes.

WARNING: Do not use Red Ginger over henna of the compound type. Where doubt exists, give a strand test for compound henna.

12. Test For Metallic Salts

PROBLEM: Many times a patron coming for a permanent wave or hair-color treatment either cannot or will not tell what preparations she has previously used on her hair. If metallic compounds have been used, trouble may result in the form of breakage or discoloration. Thus it is necessary to test to determine if metallic compounds have been used.

SOLUTION: Hair that has been treated with either a hair restorer, metallic dye or compound henna will appear to be dull, with no highlights. Each hair is solidly colored, without the shading found in natural pigmented hair. Hair is heavy with coating, generally harsh or brittle. These colorings usually fade into unnatural shades. The dyes that contain lead turn purple. Those containing silver turn green. Those containing copper turn red. Following is the test for Metallic Salts: The "1-20" Test

The test for Metallic Salts is usually called the "1-20" test.

1. Mix a glass container, 1 oz. of 20 vol. peroxide and 20 drops ammonia 28%.
   
   
2. Cut a piece of hair from the area on the patron's head which has been most frequently exposed to the coloring.
   
   
3. Bind with scotch tape and immerse in the above solution for 30 minutes. Then remove from dish and let stand for 24 hours.

Most of these products contain lead, silver, or copper salts. Here are the reactions to look for:

Lead--Hair will change color immediately. It often turns much lighter very rapidly.

Silver--No reaction whatsoever at end of half hour. A peroxide and ammonia solution cannot lighten this base because it cannot penetrate . . . while a strand with no artificial coloring or a penetrating tint will lighten to some degree.

Copper--Solution will start to boil within a few minutes. Strand feels hot. It throws off a very disagreeable odor. After a few minutes, the hair will pull apart easily.

If any of these conditions are evident, the metallic coating must be removed before hair can be successfully colored or permanented.

In all cases, after the coating has been removed, the strand should be checked again in 24 hours by stretching for breakage. If breakage occurs, this means that the hair is so badly damaged that it must first be reconditioned before the hair coloring can be applied. In some cases, damage may be so great a short haircut is advisable.
13.Dull, Gummy Hair

PROBLEM: Hair tends to gum up after color treatments.

CAUSE: This may be due to hard water prevalent in many communities.

SOLUTION: Use Sylk in your shampoo or give a Sylk Rinse after the hair has been shampooed. In very bad cases, it is necessary to give two Sylk Rinses to rid the hair of this gum.

14.Resistant Hair

PROBLEM: Impossible to get 100 percent coverage on gray hair.

CAUSE: Hair is extremely resistant to color. SOLUTION: Any of the following:

1. Since this type hair will not absorb color rapidly, the color has a tendency to be rejected and to roll down the strand of hair. One solution is to apply the tint lightly to the new growth the first time. As soon as the application is completed, go over the same areas again using a greater quantity of the same material. During the few minutes the original application is on, the cuticle layer will be softened and the hair will become more receptive to the tint.
   
   
2. Add a few capfuls of Miss Clairol Black Velvet to the tint mixture. This gives a little more coloring value and thus insures better coverage.
   
   
3. Mix two ounces of the color selected with 1% ounces of Clairoxide or Pure White Creme Developer.
   
   
4. If any of the above methods fail, then hair should be pre-softened. Instead of using an oil bleach method, however, apply Miss Clairol Topaz to the new growth. This method decreases the development time of the desired shade, because while softening the hair it is also adding some color to the gray and white hair. If the Topaz is not applied too heavily, the hair need not be pre-shampooed. Selected color can be applied directly over it.

15. Over-porous hair—difficult to tint or permanent wave.

PROBLEM: Sometimes the hair is over-porous and has a tendency to grab too much color or too much of the permanent wave solution. This makes tinting or permanent wave treatments difficult to control.

CAUSE: Hair may become over-porous from over-bleaching, improper permanent waving, sun-bleaching, or improper tinting.

SOLUTION: Some of the porosity may be reduced by using Clairol Hair-So-New as a filler. Shampoo the hair and rinse thoroughly. Apply Hair-So-New to the ends of the hair and then to the crown of the head, using just enough to give a smooth, silky feeling. Comb through the hair, distributing the lotion evenly throughout. (If only certain portions of the hair need treatment, apply the Hair-So-New to these portions.) Towel dry. The tinting or permanent wave solution may then be applied to damp hair or the hair may be dried first.

16. Relieving Snarls And Tangles On Tinted And Bleached Hair

PROBLEM: Products may be used to remove snarls and tangles from newly shampooed hair. On tinted hair, however, many of these products have a tendency to strip the color.

CAUSE: Stripping is caused by the chemical reaction of these products on the hair coloring. This is particularly true of creme rinses.

SOLUTION: This may be avoided through the use of Clairol Hair-So-New. Hair-So-New is applied to the hair immediately after the shampoo or a newly given tint. It removes the snarls and tangles instantly, but has no effect upon color.

17. Discoloration-Colored Bleaches

PROBLEM: Patron's hair becomes discolored during the use of colored oil bleach.

CAUSE: This is generally caused by frequently overlapping the colored bleach on a portion previously bleached. This area then becomes too porous and absorbs some of the color in the bleach. This condition may also be caused by a new permanent wave.

SOLUTION: First the discoloration must be removed. Specific solutions are discussed in case histories No. 18, No. 19 and No. 20.

Reconditioning treatments should be given in order to avoid this condition in the future. Metalex may be used. While the condition exists, discoloration may be avoided by diluting the colored bleach with an equal amount of Neutral Clairolite Bleach. When the hair is no longer too porous, you can go back to the original mixture.

18. Gray Discoloration—Drab Oil Bleach

PROBLEM: Gray stain caused by colored oil bleach.

CAUSE: This is caused by applying a drab bleach over over-bleached or badly permanent waved hair.

SOLUTION: Apply Strawberry Blonde Salon Formula without developer to the grayish spots or apply Gold Clairolite in the usual manner. Test frequently. When the discoloration is lifted, shampoo immediately.

19. Red Or Orange Discoloration-Red Oil Bleach

PROBLEM: Red or orange stain caused by red colored oil bleach.

CAUSE: Red oil bleach applied over over-bleached or badly permanent waved hair.

SOLUTION: If the correction is made as soon as the staining occurs, it can be removed with Metalex. If the stain is of long standing, then bleach with Regular or Instant Whip Lady Clairol (no Booster). If the staining still remains, a highly diluted solution of Remov-zit should be used. (Use 3 oz. of water instead of one, as called for in directions.) With Remov-zit, remember the 24-hour waiting period.

20. Green Or Blue Discoloration—Silver Bleach

PROBLEM: Green or blue stain caused by colored oil bleach.

CAUSE: This is caused by applying a silver bleach over over-bleached or badly permanent waved hair.

SOLUTION: Apply any of the following solutions to the discolored area:

1. Strawberry Blonde Salon Formula without developer.
   
   
2. Miss Clairol Sun Bronze with two parts developer.
   
   
3. Gold Clairolite plus a few drops of Red Clairolite applied in the sual manner. Test frequently. When the green has been lifted, shampoo immediately.

21. Discoloration—Bleach Or Tint Over Penetrating Rinse

PROBLEM: Hair turns green on application of bleach or tint.

CAUSE: This happens when bleaches are applied over penetrating (aniline) rinses in drab shades. The bleach penetrates through the artificial coloring but does not remove it enough. As a result, the hair pigment is bleached blonde but the rinse which remains gives a green effect.

SOLUTION:  Give a Remov-zit treatment.  In 24 hours take a color strand test. If the green has returned to some degree, it may be removed with the following mixture: 1 oz. Gold Clairolite, 2 oz. peroxide, with a few drops of Red Clairolite. This should be applied to the area with the greenish cast and tested very frequently.

As soon as the green has been eliminated, apply the mixture to all discolored areas and allow to develop fully. If, however, the hair continues to take even more green, rinse the hair immediately and give another Remov-zit treatment. After the regular 24-hour waiting period, repeat the test. If the results are satisfactory, complete the treatment.

22. Orange Or Pink Discoloration-Under-Development

PROBLEM: Hair takes on orange or pink tones after a penetrating color treatment in which a warm or red shade is used.

CAUSE: This orange or pink cast with a warm or red shade is caused by under-developed color. It may be due to any of the following reasons:

1. Weak developer.
2. Old tint.
3. Hair previously coated . . . tint could not penetrate.
4. Tint not left on long enough.
5. Too light a color selected for the amount of coloring required to blend with previous color given.

SOLUTION: Do not bleach. If your investigation shows that reasons (1), (2), (3), or (4) have caused the under-developed color, prepare a new mixture of the same color, being careful that your developer and tint are fresh enough. Reapply the mixture to complete the color development. It is necessary, however, to test more frequently since the hair is already partially developed and less development time will be needed for this application.

If reason (5) applies, select a darker color for the reapplication.

23. Red Tones In Black Colors

PROBLEM: A reddish tone may develop while tinting in the black or blue colors.

CAUSE: This may be due to one of the following reasons:

1. Developer too weak.
2. Insufficient development time.
3. Application not heavy enough.
4. Insufficient penetration because of coated hair.
5. Use of a strong shampoo or rinse which strips color.

SOLUTION: Apply the tint as heavily as possible. If necessary, reapply a second time. Allow the tint to develop from 5 to 10 minutes longer than during previous treatments. Suggest that your patron use Clairol Shampoo for Tinted Hair, and avoid creme rinses that may tend to strip color.

25. Too Much Red In Drabbest Shades

PROBLEM: On some customers, even the drabbest shades have tendency to turn red after a period of time.

CAUSE: This may be caused by any of the following reasons:

1. Unsatisfactory tint treatment because of weak developer.
2. Bad application of tint or insufficient quantity used.
3. Fading from under-development of color.
4. Stripping of color due to the use of improper shampoos or ex cessive use of lacquers and pomades.
5. Too much natural red pigment in the hair.

SOLUTION: If checkup shows that reasons (1), (2) or (3) apply, reapply the tint and allow to develop further.

If reasons (4) or (5) apply, correction can be made in one of the following ways:

1. Add 1/4 Miss Clairol Ermine to 3/4 of the color selected.
   
   
2. If a strand test shows that the Ermine does not produce a drab enough color, the same quantity of Miss Clairol Starlight should be substituted.
   
   
3. Add Clairol Silver Drops. If Salon Formula colors are used, add 3 or 4 drops. If Miss Clairol colors are used, add 5 to 10 drops

25. Red Colors—Gray Hair Turns Orange

PROBLEM: When using a red color which has given satisfactory results in the past, it is sometimes found that too much orange develops at the temples or front hairline.

CAUSE: This usually happens when the patron has become considerably grayer since the treatments were first started. The red colors on the new gray hair do not go as deep as on the rest of the head and consequently turn orange. This is because of the lack of basic pigment in gray hair.

SOLUTION: This may be corrected in one of the following ways

1. Apply the regular color throughout the hair except at the white areas. At these areas apply one shade deeper.
   
   
2. Apply the regular color throughout the hair except at the white portion. At this area add to the balance three or four capfuls of an Ash Blonde shade.  (For instance, in Miss Clairol, the color would be Moongold. In Salon Formula, it would be Ash Blonde 15E.) This artificially replaces the missing pigment and the color will be uniform throughout the head.

Note:

If this orange tone is discovered after a treatment is finished, it can be overcome by applying to the orange area only a mixture of 3 capfuls of Ermine with 3 capfuls of developer. Test for color immediately. If the hair has not drabbed and deepened enough, allow the color to develop for a few minutes and retest. This should only take minutes. Do not overdevelop or too much red will be drabbed.

26. Red Colors—Not Enough Red

PROBLEM: Sometimes even though the brightest red color is used, hair does not take on enough red tone to satisfy the patron.

CAUSE: This can be caused by the quality and condition of the hair.

SOLUTION: The color can be brightened by an additional application of the lightest red color (Miss Clairol or Salon Formula). Apply without the developer as a soap cap throughout the head. Allow to develop for five minutes and test for color.

27.  Red Colors-To Brighten Red Highlights On Tinted Hair

PROBLEM: Patron would like to brighten her hair which is already tinted to a red shade.

CAUSE: Sometimes a slightly brown quality is developed by over-porosity due to over-exposure to sun, over-permanent waving, too much lacquer, etc.

SOLUTION: To lighten and redden a red shade, give a five minute Glamour treatment with Fire Silver. Fire Silver has greater bleaching action and is the brightest of the red colors. This short five minute application will lighten and redden the shade. In some cases a longer development time may be necessary. Continue treatments with regular formula unless additional brightening is needed.

28. Red Colors—Ends Do Not Hold Color

PROBLEM: When tinting with the bright red colors the ends do not hold color.

CAUSE: This is caused by the ends becoming over-porous. This could be due to permanent waving, over-bleaching, sun bleaching, etc.

SOLUTION: These bright red colors art produced with Red Fashion Colors. When this problem occurs, mix only one-half of the quantity. Apply to the roots in the usual way using one part color, one part Lady Clairol and two parts developer. But when blending through to the ends, do not carry the original mixture through. Make a new mixture using one part color and one part developer and apply to ends. Using a more concentrated color on the ends will give an even shade throughout.

29. Red Colors-Purple Or Mahogany Tones

PROBLEM: Hair tinted with red colors takes on objectionable mahogany or purple tones.

CAUSE: This may be caused by the reaction of the particular's patron's hair to the color used.

SOLUTION: This can be avoided by adding a small amount of gold to the color used. For example: If a red color of Miss Clairol is used, use Vi Golden Apricot with % of the selected color. If Salon Formula is used, use V4 of either 10A or 11A with •% of the Salon Formula color.

30. Red Colors-Dark Ends

PROBLEM: Hair tinted with red colors sometimes takes on a brown cast on the ends or at the temples.

CAUSE: Over-porous hair tends to take too much color in this area and brown tones are the result.

SOLUTION: Bleach the hair with Gold Clairolite in the usual manner. Watch this operation closely, and as soon as the excess color is bleached, rinse the hair and shampoo. This watchfulness can be important because if the bleach is left on too long, and the gold bleach will make the hair too blonde and thus require reapplication of tint.

This problem can be avoided in the future by diluting the tint with a greater amount of shampoo at the ends and by checking the color development at the temples much sooner. This is done by towel drying the hair or applying shampoo to these sections. Both methods will retard the development of the tint.

31. Red Colors-Faded Ends

PROBLEM: When tinting with the red colors, ends do not hold color.

CAUSE: This may be caused by faulty permanent wave or by over-bleaching. It may also be caused by spongy ends that come from improper tinting.

SOLUTION: Apply the regular formula to the roots and blend only through three-quarters of the strand. But when doing the ends, apply the next deepest color of red. For example, if Flame is used on the roots, use Coppertone on the ends. If Coppertone is used on the roots, use Sparkling Sherry on the ends. If Sparkling Sherry is used on the roots, use Red Ginger on the ends. In future applications, when ends begin to hold color, return to using the original single color.

32. Green Discoloration—Rinse On Bleached Hair

PROBLEM: Patron's hair has green discoloration.

CAUSE: This may be caused by the use of a drab rinse as a toner over bleached hair which is too yellow, too gold or too porous. The gold combines with the bluish color of the rinse to give a green shade.

SOLUTION: Apply Straberry Blonde Salon Formula without developer or a mixture of 1 part Miss Clairol Sun Bronze and 2 parts developer. Apply to the green areas only. In extreme cases of green discoloration, it is advisable to follow with a Metalex treatment on this type of hair.

33. Green Discoloration—Permanent Wave Over Hair With Blue Rinse

PROBLEM: A permanent wave is given on yellowed white hair that has previously been given blue rinses. The hair turns green.

CAUSE: Blue rinse should have been removed before the permanent wave was given. Metalex should have been used for this.

SOLUTION: To remove the green discoloration, give a Metalex treatment. If this does not remove color sufficiently, use Remov-zit. In this case, it is not always necessary to use a heating cap after the Remov-zit has been applied. Test for color as soon as the Remov-zit has been applied. If color has been lifted sufficiently, rinse and shampoo immediately. If it hasn't, use a heating cap. Remember, nothing else should be applied to the hair within 24 hours.

34. Green Discoloration-Permanent Wave Over Compound Henna

PROBLEM: Hair turns green after permanent wave.

CAUSE: This is an example of what may happen if metallic coatings are not removed before permanent waving. Customer may henna her hair at home. Not knowing that there are two types of henna, pure and compound, she may lead you to believe that it is the pure vegetable type. Since compound henna contains metallic salts, the permanent wave solution will turn the hair green if that is what has been used.

SOLUTION: First, give a Metalex treatment to remove the coating. Then use Remov-zit to remove the discoloration. You may give the Remov-zit treatment immediately after the Metalex treatment, but you must wait 24 hours after the Remov-zit treatment before any further treatments can be given to the hair. The number of treatments needed depends upon the degree of coating and staining. When you feel that the hair has reacted sufficiently, take a strand test for color. If any of the compound remains, the hair will again turn green indicating that the treatment should be continued. When the strand test has been satisfactory, proceed with the color treatment.

Do not use bleach to correct this particular problem since developer will only bring up more of the greenish cast. Of course, after the problem has been corrected, bleaches may be used

35. Green Discoloration—Chlorinated Water

PROBLEM: Blonde hair takes on a greenish cast after patron has been swimming in a pool.

CAUSE: Too much chlorine in the water.

SOLUTION: If hair has been bleached, use either Strawberry Blonde Salon Formula without developer, or Miss Clairol Sun Bronze with two or three parts of Clairoxide. In serious cases, give a Metalex treatment. Advise your customer to wear a bathing cap in the future.

36. Green Discoloration—Under-Development

PROBLEM: Hair takes on a greenish cast after a penetrating color treatment in a drab or gold color. This is not to be confused with the greenish color that is a result of compound and metallic salts.

CAUSE: This greenish cast with a drab shade is caused by under-developed color. It may be due to any of the following reasons:

1. Weak developer.
2. Old tint.
3. Hair previously coated .. . tint could not penetrate.
4. Tint not left on long enough.
5. Too light a color may have been selected for the amount of coloring required to blend with the color that had previously been applied to the hair.

SOLUTION: Do not bleach. If your investigation shows that reasons (1), (2), (3), or (4) have caused the under-developed shade, prepare a new mixture of the same color, being careful that your developer and tint are fresh enough. Reapply the mixture to complete the color development. It is necessary, however, to test more frequently, since the hair is already partially developed and less development time will be needed for this application.

If reason (5) applies, select a darker color for the reapplication.

37. Green Discoloration—Blue Rinse On Yellowed White Hair

PROBLEM: Blue rinse is applied to white hair which has yellowed from an acid condition. Hair turns green.

CAUSE: Combination of blue rinse over yellow gives a green shade.

SOLUTION: Use Metalex to remove the green discoloration. Do not use coloring or bleaches to correct this condition. They will lighten the hair which has not been affected, and a new problem will be created. If the problem is serious enough, use several Metalex treatments. In extreme cases a diluted Remov-zit will be necessary.

38. Blue Discoloration-Ermine Or Starlight

PROBLEM: Hair turns blue after using Miss Clairol Ermine or Starlight on bleached hair.

CAUSE: This can be caused by the hair having been over-bleached. It then becomes too porous and takes on too much color, thus turning blue.
SOLUTION: Give a Metalex treatment to lift the excess blue. If some blue still remains, use either Strawberry Blonde Salon Formula without developer or Miss Clairol Sun Bronze with two or three parts of developer. If some blue still remains, give another Metalex treatment. In extreme cases highly diluted Remov-zit will remove this discoloration.

39. Gray Hair—Attempted Permanent Blueing Treatment

PROBLEM: Attempt has been made to give a permanent blueing treatment to gray hair of the salt and pepper type. Permanent discoloration results with dark hair going light and light hair growing brownish.

CAUSE: A permanent blueing effect cannot be given successfully because blue is unstable and fades rapidly, and the developer has a bleaching action on the pigment of the hair.

SOLUTION: Never give a treatment of this type. If the treatment has been given, the best that can be done is to give a Metalex treatment to lift the blue and some of the brown. Then cover up by using Come Alive Gray. Do not attempt to correct this by additional bleaching.

40. Unsatisfactory Tint Results-Systemic Causes

PROBLEM: Occasionally unsatisfactory results will occur in a tint or bleach treatment even though the application is perfect and the merchandise is in good condition.

CAUSE:  Patron's systemic condition may differ from time to time. Poor health may affect the action of bleach or tint. Drugs or anesthetics taken before the treatment may also have an effect.

SOLUTION: Give several reconditioning treatments with Metalex to improve the quality of the hair.

41. Light Roots With Miss Clairol On Previously Tinted Hair

PROBLEM: When dark Miss Clairol colors are used on a retouch over hair previously tinted with a shampoo tint, the roots may look lighter and warmer than the rest of the hair.

CAUSE: Miss Clairol has a bleaching action. When applied to hair darker than the color used, it will lighten it a shade or two rather than deepen it as a shampoo tint will do.

SOLUTION: Reapply the same color of Miss Clairol, but add to it a small quantity of Black Velvet (from 1 capful to ⅛ of an ounce, depending on how much depth is needed) or mix with the next deepest color. You may also use a deeper color.

42. Unsatisfactory Color—Too Dark

PROBLEM: Haircoloring has a tendency to go too dark.

CAUSE: Hair too porous from improper bleaching, tinting or permanent waving.

SOLUTION: Recondition with two or three Metalex treatments. Then select a lighter color or weaken the previously selected color by adding a little of the next lighter color to produce a lighter result.

43. Roots Too Dark

PROBLEM: Roots darker than balance of hair shaft.

CAUSE: Over-development of color. This may be due to any of the following reasons:

1. A slow application.
2. Mixture left on too long.
3. To dark a color selected.
4. Peroxide used which is stronger than the required 20-volume.

 SOLUTION: Remove the excess tint by bleaching the over-developed section with one of the following:

1. Lady Clairol Whipped Creme Hair Lightener or Instant Whip Lady Clairol.
2. Neutral Clairolite.
3. Miss Clairol — ⅔ oz. Topaz, ⅓oz. Ermine — for cases where the roots are just a shade or two too dark.
4. On very dark and difficult cases where stripping of the color is necessary, the Booster should be used with either Lady Clairol.

In all these cases ,the application should be watched very closely and the lightening agent should be rinsed as soon as enough coloring has been removed. If this is done, a reapplication of tint can be avoided. If during the bleaching, the hair goes lighter or redder than desired, then reapply a tint to get the desired shade.

44. Color Uneven From Colored Shampoos

PROBLEM: Hair takes color unevenly.

CAUSE: On the same head of hair there are different degrees of porosity. Since colored shampoos are shampooed into the hair — not applied like tints — it is difficult to secure an even color throughout.

SOLUTION: Apply Metalex to just those areas that have taken too much color. Test after a few minutes and as soon as color is lifted, rinse. If the color shampoo is of a more lasting type, it may have to be removed by bleaching, if hair has been previously exposed to bleach. If the shampoo has been used on natural hair, in extreme cases, a highly diluted Remov-zit should be used.

45. Dark Ends

PROBLEM: Dark ends result after a Miss Clairol treatment or Shampoo Tint.

CAUSE: Insufficient dilution of tint when carried through the ends. The more porous the ends, the darker the results.

SOLUTION: This can be corrected by applying a bleach to the ends. It can also be corrected by using a mixture of 1 oz. Topaz, ½ oz. Ermine and 3 oz. Clairoxide. For further treatments, remember to dilute the tint with a greater amount of shampoo and do not leave it on too long.

46. Fading Color

PROBLEM: Excessive amount of color lost during shampoos.

CAUSE: Detergents, soapless oil, sulphonated shampoos and medicated shampoos tend to strip color. Creme shampoos and creme rinses also strip color.

SOLUTION: Use or suggest new mild Clairol Shampoo for Tinted Hair. If a creme rinse is needed, dilute it greatly for the least possible amount of color stripping. Clairol Hair-So-New will remove snarls and tangles and recondition the hair at the same time without affecting the color.

47. Color Too Weak

PROBLEM: After color application the shade may appear too light. Improper color selection.

SOLUTION: Select a deeper color. If, however, this color is too dark, mix the originally selected color with a proportionate amount of the next deeper color or with a few capfuls of Miss Clairol Black Velvet.

48. Insufficient Bleaching With Miss Clairol

PROBLEM:  Sometimes with Miss Clairol the color selected is satisfactory but the degree of bleaching is insufficient.

CAUSE: Limited bleaching action in color selected.

SOLUTION: Bleaching action must be increased in either of the following ways:

1. Add from 2 capfuls to 1/4 oz. Topaz.
2. Use double the normal amount of Clairoxide. Coverage of gray will be weakened a bit in this case.
3. Add from ⅛ to ¼ oz. Regular or Instant Whip Lady Clairol to regular Miss Clairol mixture. Add an additional amount of Clair oxide to allow for this.

49. Lightening Virgin Hair

PROBLEM: Often when lightening virgin hair with a bleach or Miss Clairol, the roots appear to lighten more than the ends. This occurs especially when hair is being lightened a number of shades.

CAUSE: Body heat has a tendency to increase lightening action at the roots.

SOLUTION: If using Miss Clairol, one of these methods may be used:

1. Apply the tint throughout the hair except at the ends. Save a small  quantity  of the mixture,  then  add  an  extra  portion  of Clairoxide or Pure White Creme Developer to it before applying to the ends.
   
2. Apply the color throughout the hair except at the roots. Wait until the hair has begun to lighten. Then apply to the roots. If a bleach is used, keep mixture from roots until the last.

50. Returning Tinted Hair To Natural Color

PROBLEM: Patron who has hair lightened and tinted wishes to return to her natural shade.

CAUSE: There can be many reasons for this.

SOLUTION: If there is only a few weeks growth (½ inch or less), use the Miss Clairol color which is closest to the exact shade desired or a Salon Formula color one shade lighter. Apply to three-quarters of the strand, leaving the ends till last. Then start testing for color. As soon as the hair is almost colored enough, carry the balance of the tint through to the ends. If a light color is used, do not dilute with shampoo for the ends. If a dark color is used, add an equal amount of shampoo before working it through the ends.

If there is an inch or more of new growth, apply the tint selected starting with the bleached portion down to one inch from the ends. Then continue in the aforementioned manner.

51. Changing Tinted Hair To Lighter Shade

PROBLEM: The patron has been tinting her hair to one of the dark shades, and wishes to lighten her color to a new shade.

CAUSE: There can be many reasons for this, but it is usually due to the fact that a woman who is turning gray realizes that her appearance will improve with a lighter shade.

SOLUTION: First lighten the hair to the shade desired with either Neutral Oil Bleach, Miss Clairol Topaz with double Clairoxide, Regular or Instant Whip Lady Clairol. Apply the mixture only to the tinted portion. Then rinse, dry and proceed with the retouch using the desired shade.

52. Color Too Drab

PROBLEM: After a color treatment the shade appears a bit too drab.

CAUSE: Improper color selection.

SOLUTION: Warm tones and highlights can be added immediately by shampooing the hair and using a Come Alive Color Rinse in the shade desired.

53. Drabbing Out Red And Gold Tones

PROBLEM: Too many red and gold tones remain after tinting.

CAUSE: This can either be due to an over-abundance of red pigment in the hair or improper color selection.

SOLUTION: Give a soap cap using a mixture of 1 oz. Miss Clairol Ermine, 1 oz. Clairoxide and 1 oz. Clairol Shampoo. Work into a lather and test every 5 minutes. When color has drabbed enough, rinse and shampoo. For greater drabbing, use a mixture of 1 oz. Miss Clairol Starlight, 1 oz. Clairoxide and 1 oz. Clairol Shampoo.

54. Changing Tinted Hair To A Much Lighter Shade

PROBLEM: Patron wishes to change her hair to a much lighter shade than she now has.

CAUSE: Woman with gray hair realizes lighter colors are much more becoming to her.

SOLUTION:  The best solution for this problem is to give patron a Remov-zit application and 24 hours later continue treatment. However, if patron does not have sufficient time for Remov-zit treatment, then do the complete treatment with bleaching and avoid a waiting period. Bleach hair with either Lady Clairol—or, if hair is resistant, with either Lady Clairol and Lightening Booster, or in extreme cases with Blue Lightening Powder Bleach. Then tint hair with desired color .

55. Uneven Toning—Gold Streaks

PROBLEM: In a Silver Blonde treatment sometimes the resulting shade
is gold rather than silver.

CAUSE: Insufficient bleaching. Unless the hair is made light enough and porous enough, it will not absorb a sufficient amount of the silver toner even during a long development period. This may occur in spots or in streaks rather than throughout the entire head.

SOLUTION: Prepare another bleach and apply only to the gold spots for additional bleaching in this area. The color will not be evenly drab until the base has been evened by bleaching.

56. Light Streaks On Tinted Or Bleached Hair

PROBLEM: Light streaks may develop throughout hair which has been tinted or bleached.

CAUSE: In bleaching, light streaks are caused by overlapping, by sun bleaching, by permanent waving, or by improper tinting.

SOLUTION: Spot tinting will correct the streaks. Select a color deep enough to match darkest portion of hair. Apply only to the light spots. Test frequently. As soon as the light spots have enough color, dilute the balance of the tint with an equal amount of shampoo (if brown color is used, use twice as much shampoo). Work into lather to distribute color evenly. Rinse and shampoo.

57. Sun-Streaked Hair

PROBLEM: Hair streaked from exposure to sun.

CAUSE: Over-exposure to sun has bleaching effect on hair.

SOLUTION: This can be evened out in one simple application. Give a shampoo cap with the Miss Clairol color closest to patron's natural color. If there is no single color close enough, mix colors to achieve proper shade. Color strand test should be made frequently. Development seldom exceeds 10 minutes.

58. Faded Or Streaked Ends-Virgin Brown Hair

PROBLEM: Patron has virgin brown hair streaked or faded at the ends. She may want the condition to be corrected, but not want to have her hair colored regularly.

CAUSE: This condition may be cause.! by sun-streaking or by a permanent wave.

SOLUTION: This may be corrected by applying color to the light areas. With brown hair, the color to be used might be Sable Brown or Black Velvet (Miss Clairol) without developer, or Salon Formula 18, 19, or 20 without developer. A few minutes after application, start testing for color. When color is even, rinse immediately and shampoo.

59. Faded Or Streaked Ends-Virgin Blonde Or Red Hair

PROBLEM: Patron has virgin blonde or red hair streaked or faded at the ends. She may want the condition to be corrected, but not want to have her hair colored regularly.

CAUSE: This condition may be caused by sun-streaking or by a permanent wave.

SOLUTION: Apply to the light area only the Miss Clairol color closest to the patron's natural shade. It is mixed in the regular way with an equal amount of Clairoxide. If Salon Formula is used, select the color closest to the natural shade and mix it with equal parts of developer and shampoo. A few minutes after application, start testing for color. As soon as color is even, rinse immediately and shampoo.

60. Very Dark Or Black Ends

PROBLEM: While tinting with darker colors, ends become too dark or even black. This must be corrected immediately.

CAUSE: This may be caused either by the fact that the ends are too porous, or by insufficient dilution of tint for the ends.

SOLUTION: Make a highly diluted soltuion of Remov-zit. Apply to only the dark ends or sections. It is advisable to do this at the basin. Test for color as soon as application is complete, and continue to test frequently. It is important to time this correctly so that the Remov-zit can be rinsed out when the hair has reached the right shade. If the mixture is left on too long, the hair will go too red and too light. In this case, additional color will have to be added. This cannot be done for 24 hours.

61. Correcting Dark Streaks

PROBLEM: Peroxide is applied to correct dark streaks in a retouch but streaked portion goes even darker.

CAUSE: Peroxide is not rinsed out and continues to develop the color after being heated under the drier.

SOLUTION: Be careful to rinse the peroxide immediately after the streak has lightened.
 
62. Avoiding Streaked Hair—Colored Oil Bleaches

PROBLEM : Patron has porous hair, and you wish to avoid streaking during an oil bleach treatment.

CAUSE: Too much color must not be used with porous hair. Excess color will cause the hair to streak.

SOLUTION: Weaken the coloring value of the bleach by mixing it with the neutral bleach. The amount to be used can be determined by giving a strand test.

63. Avoiding Dark Streaks At Temples

PROBLEM: Some tint patrons always develop dark streaks at the hair line or temples. When this happens, the color must be bleached out which unfortunately makes the hair more porous and consequently makes it go darker each time. This can be avoided if you know in ad vance that the condition exists.

CAUSE: This condition usually occurs when the hair is extremely fine and consequently more porous than normal. SOLUTION: Here is a way to avoid the condition:

As soon as the application to the roots is completed, part the hair one half inch beyond the hairline and hold the strand perpendicular to the scalp. Use a towel to dry off the tint which has seeped beyond the new growth. This stops the coloring action, and is preferable to shampooing because the shampoo may seep to roots and weaken coloring action.

64. Permanent Wave Leaves Hair Too Light

PROLBEM: After a new permanent wave, the hair may appear too light, and the patron may object to this.

CAUSE: Permanent waving solutions have a tendency to lighten hair.

SOLUTION: Use either Miss Clairol or Salon Formula as a shampoo cap. With Miss Clairol use the exact color desired, mixing one part color to one part developer. With Salon Formula use the exact color desired, mixing one part color and one part developer and one part shampoo. Test immediately after application. As soon as desired shade is reached, rinse the hair immediately and shampoo. The complete treatment should take no more than 5 minutes.

65. Coloring Over New Permanent

PROBLEM: Sometimes dark ends and streaks result when tinting the hair immediately after having given a new permanent wave.

CAUSE: A permanent wave may leave the hair excessively porous causing too much color to be absorbed.

SOLUTION: To correct this condition, apply a bleach to the streaked portions and dark ends. It may also be corrected with Miss Clairol using a mixture of 1 oz. Topaz and 1/2 oz. Ermine and 3 oz. developer.

You may avoid this condition by protecting the more porous regions before applying the tint. This can be done with Hair So New for dull blonde, Buttercup Beige without peroxide for brilliant blonde, Strawberry Blonde or Sunbronze without developer for reds. Apply to porous spots. Then apply regular tint mixture without removing filler selected.

66. Permanent Waving Over-Bleached Hair

PROBLEM: Over-bleached hair is difficult to permanent wave. Break age may result.

CAUSE: Over-bleaching destroys elasticity of hair.

SOLUTION: Give several Metalex treatments to help recondition hair. Use permanent wave lotions especially prepared for bleached and dyed hair. Dilute them further in water. Wind the hair with water, and apply the lotion after the hair has been wound. Make frequent tests. An application of Hair-So-New to the hair before the wave is given will give it more body and help to wave it more successfully.

67. Bleaching Dark Or Resistant Hair

PROBLEM: Sometimes an attempt to bleach dark or resistant hair in the shortest possible time may cause abuse to the hair and abrasions and blisters to the scalp.

CAUSE: The amount of bleaching the scalp can take is limited by the sensitivity of the individual being treated.

SOLUTION: The best way to prevent this is to keep the bleach from the scalp for the longest possible period of time. Starting one inch from the scalp, apply the bleach on entire strand. (Unless the ends are damaged, in which case, omit the ends). The second application is applied directly from the scalp to the ends without shampooing between applications. Some of the bleach from the first application can, however, be wiped away with a towel, enabling second application to penetrate more quickly.

68. Bleached Hair Breakage Test

PROBLEM: Many times a patron who wishes a coloring treatment or permanent wave has bleached hair which is too dry, brittle or weak for proper work.

CAUSE: This may be caused by the fact that too many bleaches have been given without reconditioning. It may also be caused by overlapping of bleaches. This damages the hair. SOLUTION: First it is necessary to determine how much damage has been done. A test can be made during shampoo, or by wetting a strand with developer. If the hair feels gummy to the touch and can be easily pulled apart, this means that the hair is damaged and must be reconditioned or else breakage will occur during the coloring treatment or permanent wave.

Reconditioning can be done with a series of Metalex treatments.

69. Breakage —Over-Bleaching

PROBLEM: Breakage on highly bleached hair.

CAUSE: This can be caused by any of the following reasons:

1. Careless application of bleaches.
2. Too many retouches which over-lap and cause damage.
3. Improper permanent wave.
4. Use of a bleach which is too strong.
5. Frequent pinning up of hair with bobby pins.

SOLUTION: Give series of Metalex treatments. Apply in the usual manner except when there is breakage. If there is breakage, simply rinse the Metalex out as thoroughly as possible without shampooing.

70. Over-Bleached Sections Of Hair

PROBLEM: Hair turns white in sections during bleaching, consequently the sections will either go too drab or not hold color at all, and the toning will be uneven.

CAUSE: This is caused by over-bleaching which is due to careless application or the over-lapping of too many bleaches. When this happens, too much of the gold tone is destroyed and it must be artificially replaced for even results.

SOLUTION: After bleaching hair in the usual manner use one of the following procedures:

1. Strawberry Blonde

1. Apply Strawberry Blonde Salon Formula without developer to all white or over-bleached areas. Apply strand by strand.  If spots take too much color, gently rub off excess with a damp towel (a damp towel is gentler on the hair.) When the application is completed, comb the hair until color evens itself out.
2. Do not rinse hair, but apply toner directly in the usual manner.

2. Buttercup Beige

1. Apply Buttercup Beige mixed with equal amount of developer to the over-bleached areas.
2. Develop until the shade is even throughout. Then rinse, towel dry and apply the color desired.

71. Silver Blonding On Uneven Gray Hair

PROBLEM: In Silver Blonding on gray hair the hair may be completely gray in front and only streaked with gray in back. The resulting Silver Blonde shade may be uneven.

CAUSE: Uneven pigmentation. White in front or yellow or brassy in back as a result of bleaching.

SOLUTION: Use a silver color on the back section only and an Ash Blonde color in the front. If the Ash Blonde is not quite silver enough, add to it a small quantity of the tint used in the back. If this method is used, the hair should finish with an even shade throughout.

72. Over-Silvered Hair

PROBLEM: In Silver Blonding, hair may be so highly bleached that even diluted silver tints may give too much color and go too silver.

CAUSE: This may be caused by over-bleaching or by over-exposure to the sun or by a new permanent wave.

SOLUTION: To prevent this in future treatments, mix 1¾ oz. Extra Lite Silver Blonde (Salon Formula) or Extra Lite Platinum (Salon Formula) with ¼ oz. Strawberry Blonde or Buttercup Beige and 2¼ oz. developer. Apply in the usual manner.

73. Hair Too Silver

PROBLEM: In Silver Blonding after a number of retouches, the hair may have a tendency to go too silver.

CAUSE: This may be caused by over-bleaching.

SOLUTION: If the lightest color of silver is used, and still produces too much silver, use one of the following solutions:

1. Mix two parts of developer to one part of silver tint.
2. Mix one part silver tint, one part developer, one part shampoo.
3. Use silver colors in Salon Formula or use Miss Clairol Ermine or Starlight without developer.

74. Over-Silvered Hair-Too Blue

PROBLEM: Hair takes on too much blue tone during silvering process.

CAUSE: This may be caused by any of the following:

1. Slow application.
2. Too long a development period.
3. Improper color selection.
4. Too porous hair because of over-bleaching.

SOLUTION: This may be corrected by any of the following methods:

1. If blue is too deep, apply Strawberry Blonde Salon Formula without developer in the same manner. Make frequent tests for color.
   
   
2. If blue is too deep, apply one part Miss Clairol Sun Bronze with two parts of developer. Test frequently. When excess is lifted, rinse immediately. Give Metalex treatments.
   
   
3. If hair is only slightly too blue, apply Buttercup Beige and as soon as blue has disappeared, rinse immediately

75. Uneven Toning—Too Much Silver

PROBLEM: While Silver Blonding, too much silver or blue may develop on the hairline or temples.

CAUSE: This portion is over-bleached. It may also be caused by slow application.

SOLUTION: When this occurs, the silver can be lifted quickly in one of the following ways:

1. Apply Strawberry Blonde Salon Formula without developer to the over-silvered area. Test every few minutes. When the excess has been lifted, rinse immediately.
   
   
2. Apply a mixture of one part Miss Clairol Sun Bronze and two parts developer. Test every few minutes. When excess has been lifted, rinse immediately.

76. Silver Shades Turn Brown

PROBLEM: Sometimes during a Silver Blonde treatment, the tint which is used for a toner has a tendency to turn brown when it is mixed with the developer and applied to the hair.

CAUSE: This can be caused either by the fact that the tint is too old and has deteriorated or by the fact that the developer is too weak.

SOLUTION: As soon as this condition is noticed, rinse the hair immediately. Reapply a frest tint mixture, being careful to check the quality of the tint and developer. Silver colors should give a bluish tone when developed properly. Platinum will give a violet tone.
77. Changing Color Over Silver Blonde

PROBLEM: Patron with Silver Blonde hair wishes to change her hair from the silver shade to another. Difficulty is encountered

CAUSE: This is difficult because over-bleached hair will not hold color. All shades including the golds and reds have a tendency to turn drab.

SOLUTION: For best results, one of the following procedures should be used depending upon the color desired.

1. Brown or black—If Miss Clairol is used, select the exact color desired. If Salon Formula is used, select a color two shades lighter. Apply to the roots first. Then immediately comb through ¾ of the strand. Test frequently for color. When the color is almost as deep as desired, add shampoo to the remainder of the hair and work through the entire head. Allow to develop until desired color is reached.
   
   
2. Golden blonde—In Silver Blonding, all gold tones are usually destroyed. It is therefore necessary to artificially replace some of this color. This is done in one of the following ways:

A) Apply Buttercup Beige mixed with equal developer in same manner as regular tint. Allow to develop from 20 to 40 minutes until test strand shows hair is holding gold tones. In extreme cases a second application may be needed.

B) Shampoo and towel dry the hair. Apply Strawberry Blonde Salon Formula without developer to the entire strand excluding that portion one inch from the scalp (this is because some gold tones usually remain in this portion).  Distribute the color evenly by combing. Do not rinse (since no developer is used, the color would rinse out completely). Select a color from the gold or warm series. Apply in the usual manner, directly over the Strawberry Blonde.

C) Or use Miss Clairol Sun Bronze with two parts developer. Apply in the same manner. If, however, the hair appears to take too much color, rinse the hair before applying the tint

Red Colors—Apply the tint first to the ends. This is necessary because when working on silvered hair with red colors, the big problem is to get enough color in the ends. When the ends begin to hold color, work the balance of the tint through the entire head like a soap cap. Keep testing. When the shade appears even, rinse and shampoo. If the ends appear to lose color during a retouch, it is advisable to carry the tint through without diluting until the ends hold enough color.

n very serious cases it is sometimes necessary to use a deeper shade of red on these ends. For this choose one of the four Red Fashion colors, omitting Lady Clairol

78. Eliminating Gold Spots In Ash, Silver And Platinum Blonding

PROBLEM: In Ash, Silver or Platinum Blonding uneven shades are liable to develop because of gold spots which have not been eliminated from the pre-bleached hair.

CAUSE: This can be caused either by uneven application of the bleach or by the fact that the natural pigmentation is distributed unevenly and requires spot bleaching.

SOLUTION: Spot bleaching of the remaining gold tones is the preferred solution. However, even tones may be achieved by using Silver or Smoke Platinum Salon Formula colors. Either of these colors should be applied to the gold spots only and allowed to develop until the gold is almost eliminated. Without shampooing the head, apply the selected color to the entire head in the regular manner.

79. Quick Spot Toning

PROBLEM: In Ash, Silver, or Platinum Blonding gold spots remain after toning.

CAUSE: Hair has been insufficiently pre-bleached on these areas.

SOLUTION: If there is insufficient time for further bleaching or toning, these gold areas can be quickly eliminated by applying Come Alive Gray — Silver Diamond. Mix a small amount of Silver Diamond with three times as much water. First make a strand test. If test indicates further dilution or concentration is necessary, make the needed adjustment and proceed to cover all gold areas.

80. To Modify Bed Or Gold Tones In Tinted, Sun Bleached, Or Permanent Waved Hair

PROBLEM: Red or gold tones have deevloped in tinted, sun bleached or permanent waved hair.

CAUSE: Hair has been bleached by sun, new permanent or strong, soap shampoos.

SOLUTION: Apply any one of the Come Alive Gray shades, testing dilution before complete application.

81. In-Between Toning Treatment For Silver Or Ash Blonde Hair

PROBLEM: Due to over-exposure to sun, excessive use of lacquer, etc. toner has faded, but patron is not ready for a complete retouch.

SOLUTION: AS an in-between toning treatment the faded look can be avoided by applying Come Alive Gray after the weekly shampoo. For toning light delicate shades use White Sapphire; for medium shades, Silver Diamond; for darker shades use Black Pearl. In all cases take a strand test to determine the correct dilution.

82. Silver Blonding Salt And Pepper Hair

PROBLEM: In applying Silver or Platinum colors to white and gray — "salt and pepper" — hair, there may be a tendency for the white hair to turn blue or purple.

CAUSE: White, being completely devoid of pigment, will naturally take on the color of the tint in the bottle. These tints have blue and purple tones because they are made to be used on yellow hair, not white. SOLUTION: It is, therefore, advisable to add an Ash, Neutral or Beige, to the Silver or Platinum tone which will add some color base to the white hair. The percentage of each shade in the mixture used depends entirely upon the amount of gray in the hair. The amount of the base color used should increase in proportion to the amount of gray existing in the hair. A strand test should be given to determine the exact proportions of Silver or Platinum and base color to be used.

75% gray — 3 parts base shade to 1 part Silver or Platinum.
50% gray — Equal parts of Ash Blonde and Silver or Platinum.
25 % gray — 2 to 3 parts of Silver or Platinum to 1 part of Ash Blonde.

83. Making Partially Gray Hair Completely Gray

PROBLEM: Patron has gray hair and wishes to become evenly gray, but she has a great deal of natural pigment.

CAUSE: Making hair grayer is sometimes desirable in order to make the hair a more even shade.

SOLUTION: All the dark pigment must first be bleached out then tinted with Smoke Platinum in Salon Formula. There is nothing on the market that will do this without bleaching first. A rinse can be used but the results are not permanent.

84. Tinting Gray Hair-Streaks

PROBLEM: Patron has gray hair only in the front of her head. The gray is in streaks. She wishes to color the gray without tinting entire head.

CAUSE: Color change is desired.

SOLUTION: Select a tint closest to her natural color and apply to the gray portion only. As soon as the gray is colored to match her natural color, rinse the hair and shampoo.

85. Yellow Discoloration In White Hair

PROBLEM: White hair may have a tendency to take on a yellow discoloration quite undesirable.

CAUSE: This may be caused by one of the following:

1. Excessive rinses.
2. Excessive heat from dryers or permanent waves.
3. Systemic condition.

SOLUTION: Determine which is the cause and use one of the following treatments:

1. If the discoloration has been caused by excessive use of rinses, this will be evident by the harsh, coated texture of the hair. The color also has more of a yellow brown which is staining. The solution for this cause is a Metalex treatment.
   
   
2. In extreme cases staining and discoloration must be removed with a highly diluted solution of Remov-zit.
   
   
3. After removing coating and discoloration, hair may be made white with Come Alive Gray—White Sapphire.

86. Insufficient Color-Additional Gray Hair

PROBLEM: Patron has been having successful tint treatment for years but suddenly does not get sufficient color or depth of color.

CAUSE: The amount of the patron's gray hair may have increased. If this is the case, the same formula will no longer give the same shade.

SOLUTION:  Select a color one or two shades deeper than the color used in the past. It is wise, however, to keep in mind that fact that the grayer a woman gets, the lighter it is advised to tint her hair.

87. Resistant Hair—Hard To Bleach

PROBLEM: Hair is resistant and is very hard to bleach.

CAUSE: Texture of hair and /or over-abundance of natural red pigment makes bleaching difficult. Patron desires a very light toner.

SOLUTION: Apply Blue Lightening Powder Bleach.

88. Platinum Hair

PROBLEM: Patron with dark hair wishes to have all coloring bleached out leaving her hair completely white or platinum. This cannot be done with bleach alone.

CAUSE: If bleaching is counted upon to remove all pigments, breakage will occur. Therefore ,a tint must be used.

SOLUTION: There are two methods for achieving platinum hair.

Use either Lady Clairol with two Boosters to bleach hair as light as possible. A light, pale yellow.

Tint with Extra-Lite Platinum or Platinum Beige in Salon Formula. Allow the tint to develop until all of the yellow has been drabbed out.

Bleach hair to almost white stage using Lady Clairol with two Boosters or, on extremely dark resistant hair, use Blue Lightening Powder Bleach.

Tint with either Silver Smoke, or Silver Blu (Salon Formula) or Miss Clairol Ermine. Allow the hair to drab as much as possible until it takes on at least a slight bluish cast.

Rinse, shampoo and towel dry.

Apply Metalex. Heat for 20 to 35 minutes with either steamer or heating cap. As soon as the blue has been lifted, shampoo again. The bleaching lightens the hair. The blue drabs out the remaining color tones and the Metalex lifts out the tint.

89. Dye Removing, Stripping-Inadequate Application
PROBLEM: Uneven results after a dye removing or stripping treatment.

CAUSE: Inadequate application of dye remover. Sometimes the hair is not sufficiently saturated. This condition can also be caused by the fact that the hair is not covered well enough and the heating cap resting against this portion dries the mixture and stops its action.

SOLUTION: A new mixture must be made and applied to the uneven section in sufficient quantity. Of course, this does not apply to the portion of the hair which is new growth. Virgin hair is not affected by dye removers. Only the tinted portion will change color.

90. Dye Remover—Final Results Uneven

PROBLEM: After final dye remover treatments have been given and hair is ready to be tinted, a uniform light streak may appear throughout the hair. An even shade will be desired.

CAUSE: This streak indicates that the hair at one time had been treated with a bleach that lightened its base. The tint which is now being removed had been applied over the bleach. Therefore, when the dye remover went to work, it exposed the bleached area.

SOLUTION: Here are two ways in which the desired even shade may be achieved:

1. If the coloring to be used is darker than the darkest portion, apply the tint in the usual manner. The light portions will take color more readily and the color will even itself out.
   
   
2. If the color used is lighter than the darkest portion, first bleach the dark portion to a shade as light as the remainder. Then proceed with the coloring desired or use a Miss Clairol color with sufficient bleaching action and apply it to the dark spots first.

91. Objectionable Odor After Dye Remover Treatment

PROBLEM: Often patron object to odor left in hair after dye remover.

CAUSE: The chemicals in the preparation cause this.

SOLUTION: This can be modified after the final rinse, by rinsing with a mixture of 3 to 5 Drops of Essence of Oil of Peppermint in one pint of warm water or 3 to 5 Drops of Essence of Lavender in one pint of warm water. No after-rinse should be given.
92. Bleaching Following Dye Remover Treatment-(After 24 Hours)

PROBLEM:  Bleach is applied the required 24 hours after the dye remover treatment. In spite of this, hair goes very dark or black.

CAUSE: This may be caused by one of two things:

1. Insufficient rinsing of dye remover aft