Chapter 15 - Reconditioning Damaged Hair

Women, today, more than ever, are experimenting with sprays, lacquers, metallic powders and even with hair restorers, hennas, and metallic hair dyes which coat and harm the hair. The chemicals in these products will frequently damage the hair so that it will no longer take a good permanent or a coloring treatment. When hair is in this state, it must be reconditioned before it can be successfully waved or tinted.

Hair may need reconditioning for reasons other than damage resulting from the use of harmful preparations. It sometimes is naturally lifeless, brittle, thin and unmanageable. A patron's systemic condition or neglect of her hair may also cause it to be limp and lustreless.

Reconditioning treatments make the hair easier to color and permanent and do wonders in adding sheen and manageability.

Reconditioning prevents hair from reaching the stage where it is difficult to give a successful tint or permanent.

How You Can Tell Damaged Hair

The professional hairdresser can always tell whether hair is damaged or not by first testing before permanent waving or haircoloring. Whenever you feel that hair is not in good condition, give a preliminary strand test for color or a test curl before permanent waving.

Hair is considered damaged:

1. When the texture, structure, and elasticity have been affected to the extent that it is brittle, broken, matted or split.
   
   
2. When it is gummy and has lost its elasticity.
   
   
3. When it is over-porous.

These conditions may be caused by over-exposure to sun and salt water, over-bleaching, faulty permanent waving, excessive coating by metallic dyes, hair restorers, hennas, compound hennas or rinses; or by improper use of shampoos, bleaches, tints and other chemical preparations. When any of these conditions exist, reconditioning treatments are necessary before tints or permanent waves may successfully be applied.

Methods For Reconditioning Hair

There are many methods and preparations used by beauticians for restoring the proper condition and texture to hair. Among these are creme packs, hot oil treatments and hot oil shampoos. These are applied to the hair and allowed to remain while heat is applied with either heating caps, steamers, therapeutic lamps or violet rays.

Among the types of oils used in these treatments are petroleum (crude mineral oils), olive oil, castor oil, mineral oil and vegetable oils.

Metalex-A Fine Reconditioning Treatment

Metalex, by Clairol, is a specially formulated oil-base solution that reconditions dry, brittle and damaged hair. Metalex does more than simply recondition the hair. It also removes lacquers, hair rinses and foreign substances from the hair.

1. Some of the purposes for which Metalex can be used are: 1. To treat damaged hair—hair that has been overbleached, over-permanented or over-exposed to sun and salt water.
   
   
2.  For the removal of metallic dyes, compound hennas, Egyptian Hennas, hair rinses, lacquers, and other products, which coat the hair. This must be done before giving permanent wave to eliminate the possibility of the discoloration, which generally results when permanent waving over this type of coating.
   
   
3. For the removal of discoloration caused by some types of rinses, colored bleaches, or permanent waves.
   
   
4. As a corrective treatment when hair has been tinted to a shade slightly darker than natural or darker than the patron desires. Metalex treatments will lift a small amount of the excess color, if applied immediately after the color treatments.
   
   
5. Metalex treatments can be used alternately with dye-remover treatments on hair that has been treated with compound hennas. There should be a 24-hour waiting period between applications.
   
   
6. Metalex treatments can be used between bleach applications to improve and restore the quality of the hair.
   
   
7. Metalex treatments can be given to new permanents to soften the hair without weakening the curl.

How To Use Metalex

Metalex is used full strength just as it comes in the bottle. Do not dilute it or mix it with any other substance. It is applied in the following manner:

1. Apply freely to the full length of hair with a piece of cotton or a small paintbrush. Do not brush or pre-shampoo the day treatment is given.
2. Work thoroughly through the hair. Then pile hair on top of head.
3. Wrap head with a sheet of waxed paper, and over the waxed paper wrap a towel.
4. Place the patron's head under a steamer or heating cap for 30 minutes. Heat speeds up the action of the Metalex.
5. Rinse out the Metalex with warm water. Shampoo thoroughly.

Metalex will not remove penetrating coloring. Its purpose is to dissolve metallic salts and recondition the hair so that it will be possible to give further treatment successfully.

Frequency Of Use

The number of Metalex treatments to be given depends upon the condition of the hair. When Metalex treatments are given in a series for reconditioning purposes, the usual procedure is to give the treatments once a week before the regular shampoo.
 
A Metalex Treatment


1. Pour Metalex into plastic or glass dish. Metalex is used full strength just as it conies in the bottle.

2. When patron's hair feels coated from using color sprays, lacquers or similar products, always make a strand test or test curl before giving a tint, bleach or permanent wave.

3. No pre-shampooing is necessary. Apply Metalex freely to full length of hair with a piece of cotton or small paint brush.
 
4. Work Metalex through hair until entire head is thoroughly saturated. When application is finished, pile the hair on top of the head and wrap head with sheet of waxed paper.

5. Place patron's head under a steamer or heating cap for 30 minutes. Heat speeds up the action of Metalex. Then rinse out Metalex with warm water, (it rinses out quickly and easily) and shampoo.
 
If Metalex is used to correct a specific problem such as removal of coating, staining or discoloration, the treatments may be given daily, if necessary, until the problem is corrected.

Single Metalex treatments may be given from time to time before the weekly shampoo.

Hair-so-new... Another new conditioner

A new product that eliminates many of the conventional steps in hair-conditioning treatments has recently been developed by Clairol. It is called Hair-So-New. When you use Hair-So-New, you feel the improvement of the hair quality instantly.

Hair-So-New is applied to the hair like an ordinary setting lotion, but in the very act of setting the hair it also instantaneously conditions it. Hair-So-New eliminates the need for creme rinses, setting lotions and, in many instances, does away with the need for ordinary oil treatments.

It serves as a creme rinse, conditioning treatment and setting lotion— all in one. It gives the hair a new sheen as it sets it, and the results can be seen and felt immediately.

The lotion actually combines chemically with the hair to give it more body, making it easier to set and helping the set last longer. It also eliminates snarls and tangles caused by shampooing—making hair more manageable and easy to comb. The conditioning action takes place under the drier. The drier serves the purpose of the heating cap used in most conditioning treatments.

Hair-So-New is recommended for hair that has been bleached, sun-bleached, permanent-waved or tinted, but not for coated hair. Unlike most creme rinses, it does not strip color from hair. It makes permanent waves take and hold better. It is on damaged hair, particularly, that Hair-So-New shows most dramatic results. It restores elasticity and life to hair that is damaged from over-bleaching or permanent waving.

Application Of Hair-So-New

Hair-So-New is applied immediately after a thorough shampoo. The new push-button dispenser makes application easy.

In order to obtain the best possible results, it is absolutely essential to remove all the soap from the hair before Hair-So-New is applied.

Hair-So-New is applied to wet hair from which the excess moisture has first been removed by wrapping a towel around the patron's head for a few seconds.

The following are the steps to be followed in applying Hair-So-New:

1. Apply Hair-So-New on the ends of the hair first and then on the crown of the head, using just enough to give a smooth, silky feeling. About one-half ounce of the lotion should be enough.
   
   
2. Run a comb through the hair, distributing the lotion evenly throughout all the strands. You will notice that snarls and tangles instantly disappear.
   
   
3. Do not rinse. Hair-So-New remains on the hair and acts as your setting lotion.
   
   
4. Set and dry the hair in the usual manner.

Use Hair-So-New After Metalex Treatment

Some hair-colorists have found that they can achieve superb conditioning results by following a Metalex treatment with an immediate application of Hair-So-New.

Vitapointe

Creme Hairdress and Conditioner

Vitapointe is the extra light white creme hairdress that is preferred by haircolorists everywhere because it adds the perfect finishing touch to all shades of tinted and toned hair. Never greasy, the creme vanishes . . . only the glow remains to give hair coloring greater beauty and sheen than any other hairdressing. Vitapointe used after hair has been tinted and set and dried, is absolutely safe. It will not strip even the most delicate toner color.

Hairdressers also prefer Vitapointe's light, white creme for use on gray hair. Unlike many other hairdressings, it does not yellow gray.

All hair types benefit by regular use of Vitapointe Creme Hairdress. It is relied upon by more women than any other hairdressing to:

1. Add beautiful lustre and sheen
   
   
2. Condition problem hair
   
   
3. Keep hair manageable, easy to comb

For this reason, Clairol packages Vitapointe in a special 1% oz. resale tube as well as the professional jar. These tubes may be purchased by your shop in an attractive 1 dozen display dispenser that reminds you to promote Vitapointe for home hair care between settings... helps earn extra money for your shop. When you suggest it, tell your patrons it contains complete, easy-to-follow directions and demonstrate its use during comb-outs.

 
This attractive Vitapointe display dispenser holds 12 resale tubes and comes filled and ready to set up at your appointment desk. 1/2 pound professional jar of Vitapointe is for shop use only.

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