Chapter 9 - Pre-Bleaching For The Blonde Toners

X oday, high fashion blonding is one of the most important and profitable salon services. It offers the best showcase any hairdresser can have for her skill as a haircolorist. For this reason, we have considered pre-bleaching for Clairol Creme Toners apart from regular bleaching.

The key to successful toning results is proper pre-bleaching combined with the right selection and application of the toner color. Hair must be made light enough and porous enough to be receptive to the delicate toner colors.

Seven Stages In Bleaching From Black To The Pale Yellow (Almost White) Stage

Hair goes through many changes of color as it lightens during bleaching. A natural head of black hair will go through seven stages before it reaches the Pale Yellow (almost white) Stage. The degree hair lightens depends on the amount of time the bleach is left on. Note how red tones are eliminated as final stages of bleaching are reached.

The high fashion toner shades are achieved by bleaching hair to the stage required for the toner selected—gold, yellow or pale yellow, then coloring it with a tint. The decolorizing process is called pre-bleaching and the coloring process is called toning. The tint colors are called toners.

Proper Pre-Bleaching For Blonde Toners

Hair goes through many changes of color during bleaching. For instance a natural head of black hair will go from black to brown, to red to red-gold to gold to yellow and finally to the pale yellow or almost white stage. Hair must be lightened to one of the last three stages for successful application of Clairol Creme Toners.

Bleach not only lightens the hair, but makes it more porous. Porosity can only be achieved by leaving the bleach on long enough. On dark hair, the amount of time required to produce the pale yellow stage will give the hair sufficient porosity. Naturally blonde hair, however, reaches the pale yellow stage very quickly and while it may be light enough it may not be porous enough. Frequently, it takes less time to lighten than to develop the required porosity, and additional time must be allowed for this. The bleach should remain on the hair not less than forty-five minutes and up to two hours or more on coarse, resistant or dark hair.

To check porosity, make a color strand test with the toner. If the hair is porous enough, it will absorb color. If not, it will throw off the color.

Retouching The Blonde Shades

You should advise your patrons not to wait too long between retouches for the blonde shades. If they do, they will have to go through almost as long a pre-bleaching period as they did for the original application. If a customer has her hair retouched before there is too much resistant new growth, she will save herself time and expense.

Dark brown or black hair should be retouched weekly. Medium brown hair or hair with a quantity of red pigment should be done every two weeks. You may wait three weeks before retouching light brown or blonde hair.
Pre-Bleaching White And Gray Hair
It is a common mistake to assume that white hair, because it appears to have already reached a stage of almost complete decolorization, does not need pre-bleaching before application of the Blonde Toners.

It is true that lengthy bleaching is not necessary; but a certain amount of bleaching must be done to make the hair uniformly porous enough to receive the toner properly.

This is particularly important when gray hair is a mixture of light and dark strands.

How To Apply Bleaches

Before you start, assemble materials required and prepare fresh bleaching mixture according to directions for product selected (See Chapter 9, pages 75-77).

Application to virgin hair:


  1.  Part hair in four sections. Rat-tail comb or applicator may be used for this purpose.

2. Make ½-inch partings at the darkest part of hair (usually the back of head). Start application 1-inch away from scalp. (Omit ends if they lightened too much during preliminary strand test.) Apply mixture generously to make sure each strand is thoroughly saturated. Use brush or applicator for this purpose.


3. Work mixture into hair with fingers. Then continue ½-inch partings and application until all four quarters are covered.

4. When hair is almost light enough (nearly gold stage for pre-bleaching), apply mixture throughout hair and pile on top of head.

 
5. Make first strand test about 10 minutes before preliminary strand test indicated necessary. Dry 1-inch strand. If shade is not light enough, reapply mixture and continue testing frequently.


6. When desired shade is reached, rinse and shampoo immediately. Hair is ready for setting or application of Clairol Creme Toner.
 
Note

1. To brighten and highlight for a slight color change, see page 77.
   
   
2. For hairdressers who work slowly and use brush instead of applicator, the following procedure is recommended: Mix only half the required quantity of bleach. Apply mixture first to the back of the head. When the application is completed, mix the remainder of the bleach and apply it to the remaining portion of the head. This will give fresh, quick-acting bleach for the entire head.

Retouch Application

1. Divide hair in four sections, then make ⅛ inch partings using rat-tail comb or applicator. Apply bleach generously to new growth. Do not overlap   into hair previously bleached.
   
   
2. After first 15-20 minutes, dry 1-inch strand and test for color. If it has not been reached, reapply mixture and continue testing frequently.
   
   
3. When desired shade is reached, rinse and shampoo immediately. Hair is ready for setting or application of Clairol Creme Toner.

Note

Remember that the bleach should be applied to the new growth only, and not carried down the hair shaft. When this is done, breakage may result and the hair may not hold color.

There are three exceptions to this:

1. If a lighter shade is desired, the bleach should be carried through the entire strand when the roots are almost light enough. Leave the bleach on until the shaft has lightened sufficiently.
   
   
2. If it is simply another color that is desired, the bleach should be carried through the entire strand after it has developed fully at the roots and just before it is rinsed from the hair.
   
   
3. If color has become a little heavy or muddy after two or three retouches, bring bleach through for last five minutes. Whenever bringing bleach through, use whatever bleaches is left from application. Do not use a fresh mixture.

Results Of Improper Pre-Bleaching

Improper pre-bleaching may lead to any of the following results:

1. The hair may have a greenish cast after the application of a toner with a blue base. If the hair has not been sufficiently bleached, the gold tones in the hair will combine with the blue in the toner to give a greenish cast.
   
   
2. Uneven bleaching which will result in an uneven finished color.
   
   
3. Damaged hair resulting in breakage.

It is important that the bleach be thoroughly rinsed from the hair. Any bleach which may remain is apt to interfere with proper penetration of the toner.

If enough bleach is left in the hair, it will actually destroy the color value of the toner. This happens most frequently at the front and back hairlines. For this reason it is advisable to give one shampoo at the end of the bleach treatment.

Care should be taken not to leave the hair too wet prior to toning. If excessive moisture remains on the hair, the color will be diluted and parts of the hair, particularly the ends, may not receive enough color. Before the toning, hair should be towel-dried and left just damp.

Correcting Uneven Pre-Bleaching

Because of the unevenness of natural pigmentation, hair is often not bleached evenly from top to bottom. This may, also, be due to careless application of the bleach. When this happens, gold bands or spots appear through the toner. This signifies that these areas have not been lightened enough. Spot bleaching is then necessary.

At the next retouch, after the bleach has been applied to the retouch area, use some of it on the gold-band areas and let it remain until the gold bands have been lightened sufficiently to even out the entire head of hair.

Use The Proper Bleach

An oil bleach is not adequate to pre-bleach for the Blonde Toners. It is not fast enough or strong enough. In order to decolorize the hair sufficiently, one of the following should be used:

1. Ultra-Blue Lady Clairol and Protinator.
   
   
2. Lady Clairol Whipped Creme Hair Lightener and Lightening Booster.
   
   
3. Instant Whip Lady Clairol and Lightening Booster.
   
   
4. Blue Lightening Powder Bleach for extremely resistant, strong hair.

Pre-Bleaching With Ultra-Blue Lady Clairol

Clairol's newest bleach, Ultra-Blue Lady Clairol Cremogenized Hair Lightener, used with Ultra-Blue Lady Clairol Protinator was designed specifically for this purpose. Used with 1-3 envelopes of Protinator, it bleaches hair faster, lighter and drabber than any creme bleach known today. The most comfortable bleach yet developed ... even patrons with sensitive scalp are more comfortable than ever before. Stinging, biting and burning sensations are eliminated during both bleaching and the toning treatment that follows.

Here are the exclusive advantages of Ultra-Blue Lady Clairol which have made it the new standard of superiority in bleaching:

1. Greater comfort than ever before during bleaching and toning.
   
   
2. Lighter, faster bleaching.
   
   
3. Double drabbing action.
   
   
4. Refined Protinator dissolves quickly and completely, will not block applicator nozzle.
   
   
5. Uniform consistency and performance—mixture never varies from bottle to bottle, always produces a smooth thick creme.
   
   
6. No puffing, running, dripping or drying out regardless of the number of Protinator envelopes used.
   
   
7. No unpleasant greenish cast during bleaching.
   
   
8. Bleach washes out quickly and easily.

Ultra-Blue Lady Clairol Protinator

Ultra-Blue Lady Clairol Protinator, unlike any other product used in conjunction with bleaches, is formulated to condition the protein structure of the hair as well as increase the bleaching and drabbing ability of Ultra-Blue Lady Clairol.

Protinator was especially formulated for use with Ultra-Blue. Mixed with it, it makes the action of Ultra-Blue Lady Clairol more effective in every way. It cannot be used effectively with any other hair lightener.

Pre-Bleaching With Lady Clairol Whipped Creme Hair Lightener

Lady Clairol Whipped Creme Hair Lightener was Clairol's first all-purpose creme bleach to lighten, condition and shampoo in one treatment. It is still a favorite of experienced haircolorists. There are two reasons: It is easily whipped with a beater to exactly the creme consistency desired. One Lightening Booster makes its speed and bleaching action great enough to pre-bleach non-resistant light hair. With two envelopes of Lightening Booster, its speed and bleaching action are increased to the maximum needed for all the high fashion blonde shades. When whipped to thick creme consistency with beater and applied generously, it will not run, drip or dry out.

Pre-Bleaching With Instant Whip Lady Clairol

Instant Whip mixes to creme consistency quickly without beating. Like the other Lady Clairol bleaches, it lightens, conditions and shampoos in one treatment. It won't run, drip or dry out. Used with one or two envelopes of Lightening Booster for pre-bleaching, its speed and bleaching action is a little greater than Lady Clairol Whipped Creme Hair Lightener—but not quite as great as Ultra-Blue when an equal number of Protinator envelopes is used.

Lady Clairol Lightening Booster

One or two envelopes of Lightening Booster are added to Lady Clairol or Instant Whip whenever either is used to pre-bleach hair for toning. Lightening Booster increases the speed and the bleaching action of both.

Preliminary Strand Test

To predetermine the length of time to leave any Lady Clairol pre-bleach mixture on the hair and to check whether the hair is in suitable condition for bleaching, a preliminary strand test is necessary.

To save your customer's time, when the preliminary Patch Test for the toner is made, cut off several full strands of hair, secure them with scotch tape and use for preliminary strand test that follows:

Combine in a glass or plastic bowl 2 tsp. of Clairoxide or Pure White Creme Developer, ¼ tsp. (equivalent of 2 envelopes of Lightening Booster or Protinator with Ultra-Blue, and 1 tsp. Lady Clairol. Mix until creamy).

Apply this mixture to a full strand of hair. Wait 15-20 minutes, then dry strand and check for color. If it has not been reached, re-apply mixture and repeat test frequently until desired shade is achieved. Rinse immediately and dry. Record the length of time it has taken to lighten the strand and use it to gauge approximate time the full treatment will require.

What To Look For During The Strand Test

1. If, after the first color check, hair is not light enough, mixture must be reapplied and left on for a longer time.
   
   
2. If hair is too light after the first color check, mixture must be left on for a shorter time or a milder formula considered, depending on hair condition.
   
   
3. If hair is extremely strong and resistant and if strand test indicated that greater speed and lightening action would be needed to reach shade required for toner selected, you should plan to use Ultra-Blue Lady Clairol and three envelopes of Protinator for full treatment, strand testing first.
   
   
4. If strand test shows that reduced lightening will be sufficient, one Lightening Booster (one Protinator with Ultra-Blue) may be used in full treatment. Strand test new mixture to check timing.
   
   
5. If hair is very dark, it may not lighten sufficiently in one application, in which case additional treatments may be necessary. If a second is required, it is a good policy to allow a day or two to elapse between treatments.
   
   
6. If hair has been damaged, the strand test must be carefully observed for any indication of breakage or discoloration. If this happens, do not proceed with the treatment without first reconditioning and retesting. If the desired color is achieved and no breakage occurs, you may proceed with full treatment.

Pre-Bleaching With Blue Lightening

Blue Lightening is a high speed all-purpose powder bleach which contains Blue-Lite, an exclusive Clairol ingredient which gives it the ability to pre-bleach for the lightest of the high fashion toners in the shortest possible time. When combined with Clairoxide or Pure White Creme Developer, Blue-Lite makes the mixture turn blue so that Blue Lightening is able to produce lighter, drabber results than other powder bleaches.

Not an ordinary bleach, Blue Lightening should be used only when its extra strength and speed are needed. It is ideal for extensive bleaching of extremely strong, resistant hair or stripping tint color. Blue Lightening is also used for Frosting, Tipping and Streaking (See Chapter 11).

Blue Lightening's application method for virgin hair and for retouching is exactly like that of any other bleach applied with a brush. However, because it lightens so quickly you should pay particular attention to the following pointers:

1. Always check scalp for abrasions, eruptions or other skin conditions. If any exist, postpone treatment.
   
   
2. Never omit a preliminary strand test. Wash, comb and brush the hair used in the strand test, then check to be sure there is no breakage, discoloration or any other sign of damage. If any is indicated, do not use Blue Lightening.
   
   
3. Use only the proportions of ingredients given in the mixing instructions with your new Blue Lightening Hermetet package (See illustrated mixing directions in Chapter 8, page 77). Never add Lightening Booster or Protinator Powder to mixture.
   
   
4. Avoid matting, packing or combing hair during application. Keep ends loose and hair strands separated to enable air to reach all parts of the hair and scalp, so that it can help bleaching action.
   
   
5. If you are not accustomed to powder bleaches, strand test more frequently than you do when using creme or oil bleaches.
   
   
6. When shade required for the toner selected is reached, do not carry bleach down hair shaft unless the patron desires a change of toner shade. When carrying bleach down hair shaft for this purpose, do not use fresh mixture. Work balance of mixture already prepared through hair and leave on only a few minutes. Then rinse immediately and shampoo gently with Clairol Shampoo for Bleached and Toned hair.
   
   
7. When part of a package is used, reseal and store. Hermetet design keeps Blue Lightening powder fresh.

econditioning With Metalex

It is advisable to give regular reconditioning treatments to patrons who have their hair bleached enough for high fashion blonding. For this we recommend frequent applications of Clairol Metalex.

Metalex, because of its specially formulated base, helps replace the natural oils destroyed through fast bleaching.

In order to continue bleaching successfully, extreme care in application of the bleach and frequent reconditioning is necessary. If reconditioning is disregarded, breakage frequently becomes unavoidable.

Do's And Dont's For Prebleaching With Lady Clairol Or Blue Lightening

Do's

1. Always make a preliminary strand test.
   
   
2. When recommended use plastic applicator for extra speed, other wise mix bleach in a plastic or glass bowl.
   
   
3. Mix to creamy consistency if using a Lady Clairol bleach. If a whipping device is required, be sure it is made of wood, aluminum, plastic or stainless steel.
   
   
4. For best results use Clairoxide, Clairol Pure White Creme Developer or fresh 20-volume peroxide.
   
   
5. Wear rubber gloves to protect hands.
   
   
6. Make extremely small partings.
   
   
7. Use narrow fiber brush or plastic applicator for extra speed of application.
   
   
8. Apply bleach generously—never less than a full bottle or package.
   
   
9. Make frequent strand tests during development.
   
   
10. For even results, make application as rapidly as possible.
    
    
11. Always shampoo thoroughly after rinsing bleach from hair using Clairol Shampoo for Bleached and Toned Hair.
    
    
12. Handle bleached hair gently—do not rub or abuse the scalp, or pull hair when combing after treatment.
    
    
13. Re-condition highly bleached hair regularly, especially when using powder bleach.
    
    
14. Allow at least 24 hours between treatments.
    

Don'ts

1. Don't use if you suspect a past sensitivity, make the requisite 24 hour preliminary patch or skin test behind either ear with the actual bleaching mixture to be used. If there is any burning, itching, swelling, irritation, eruption, abnormal reaction, or awareness of sensation in or around the test area, then do not apply the mixture.
   
   
2. Don't give a bleach treatment if the scalp has any openings, abrasions, or other abnormal condition.
   
   
3. Don't use on damaged hair.
   
   
4. Don't shampoo hair before applying bleach.
   
   
5. Don't use stronger than 20-volume peroxide.
   
   
6. Don't mix in a metallic dish.
   
   
7. Don't prepare, mix or store the bleaching mixture in a closed container. It may burst. Discard it.
   
   
8. Don't pack, mat or bunch hair. Keep it loose for circulation of air.
   
   
9. Don't over-lap during re-touch.
   
   
10. Don't brush or pre-shampoo before treatment.

Are You Ready To Move Onto The Next Lesson? Click Here….