Chapter 8 - Bleaching

Oe of the most important and essential services in a beauty salon is bleaching. Bleaching consists of removing pigment in order to achieve a lighter shade. It can be a complete coloring treatment in itself or a preliminary treatment to prepare the hair for the application of tints.

As a coloring treatment, it is used to lighten and brighten the hair as many shades as desired.

As a pre-softening treatment, it is used to make the hair porous enough to be receptive to tints.
 
As a pre-bleaching treatment, it is used when a penetrating tint that is lighter than the natural shade of hair is to be applied. For example, it is always necessary before Clairol Creme Toners are applied.  (See Chapter 9.)

Selection Of The Proper Bleach
Now that hair is lightened for so many different purposes, specialized bleaches suited to the particular needs of the hairdresser and the patron's type of hair have been developed to make your work easier and faster ... to give the patron new comfort, more beautiful results than ever before possible. Clairol research has led the way by developing a line which now consists of five different bleaches:

Three Lady Clairol Bleaches

Most popular are the all-purpose creme bleaches which are easiest to apply and more versatile than all other types. Today, Clairol makes three in this Lady Clairol group. Though one is the out-growth of another, none have lagged in popularity because each has special features that make it superior for specific cases.

Ultra-Blue Lady Clairol Cremogenized Hair Lightener is Clairol's newest bleach. Designed to produce superior pre-bleaching results with greater ease, Ultra-Blue represents such an outstanding advance in every aspect of bleaching that it is setting new standards for the entire beauty industry. Without question, it is also the most comfortable bleach yet developed.

When 1-3 envelopes of Ultra-Blue Lady Clairol Protinator are added to an Ultra-Blue mixture, you get lighter, faster blonding results and hair is left in better condition than ever before possible—ready for delicate toner color. You will find comfort is not reduced when the Protinator is added. Both Ultra-Blue Lady Clairol and the Protinator contain blue to give you the first bleach with double drabbing action. You will find that these same features also make Ultra-Blue an outstanding all-purpose bleach.

Prepared in either applicator or bowl, Ultra-Blue mixes to a rich creme consistency almost immediately. The Protinator dissolves at once to assure a mixture that is always uniform. (Do not use a substitute with Ultra-Blue.) Easy to control when applied with applicator or narrow fiber brush, mixture will not run, drip or dry out during its full 2-hour period of bleaching action.

Ultra-Blue Lady Clairol Protinator is unlike any other product used in conjunction with bleaches. It was especially formulated for use with Ultra-Blue Lady Clairol. It should not be mixed with any other hair lightener. In mixture, it conditions the protein structure of the hair while it increases the lightening and drabbing ability of the bleach.

Lady Clairol Whipped Creme Hair Lightener is ClairoPs first creme hair lightener and still a favorite. It is easily whipped to the creme consistency desired for every lightening purpose. Mixed with developer, it is used to lighten and brighten. With the contents of 1-2 Lightening Booster envelopes added, it has the extra speed and bleaching action needed to pre-bleach hair and make it porous enough for application of toner. It is applied with a narrow fiber brush.

Instant Whip Lady Clairol Creme Hair Lightener is an all-purpose creme bleach like Lady Clairol Whipped Creme Hair Lightener, but is faster to use. Mixed in bowl, it stirs to creme consistency in seconds. Mixed in applicator, brief shaking makes it creamy. Adding Lightening Booster increases its speed and lightening action the degree required for each bleaching job. It is applied with applicator or narrow fiber brush.

Lady Clairol Lightening Booster

One or two envelopes of Lightening Booster are added to Lady Clairol or Instant Whip whenever either is used to pre-bleach hair for toning. Lightening Booster increases the speed and the bleaching action of both. It is never used with Ultra-Blue Lady Clairol.

Other Specialized Bleaches

CLAIROLITE is a mild oil bleach used to lighten and brighten hair in a simple one-step treatment. Four of the shades add temporary color highlights as they bleach. These colors are certified and may be used without a patch test. Those allergic to tints may use them. Neutral adds no color and so is frequently used to pre-soften hair for tint application. Colors and the results they produce are listed below:

Gold No. 1                Lightens and adds gold highlights.
Silver No. 2               Lightens and adds ash highlights that minimize unwanted red and gold tones.
Red No. 3                 Lightens and adds red highlights.
Neutral No. 4            Contains no color, simply lightens.
Sparkling                   Lightens and adds silvery highlights that minimize
Silver No. 5               unwanted red and gold tones.

Clairol Blue Lightening is an all-purpose bleach in powder form. It contains Blue-Lite, an exclusive Clairol ingredient, which gives it greater speed, bleaching and drabbing action than other powder bleaches. Blue Lightening is used whenever extensive bleaching is required and hair is strong and in good condition. For example: Frosting, Tipping, Streaking, pre-bleaching extremely resistant, strong dark hair for toning and stripping tint to make a change to a lighter shade.
Pre-Softening
When a pre-softener is applied to the hair it softens and loosens the cuticle layer, making it porous enough for the tint to enter the cortex more easily. Pre-softening is often necessary because the hair structure is resistant to coloring.

For pre-softening, a diluted bleach solution is used. The mixture is usually left on the hair from 5 to 20 minutes. This is not long enough to cause any appreciable change in color, but it makes the hair more receptive to the tint color.

Mixtures For Pre-Softening

Any of the three Lady Clairol bleaches or Clairolite may be used for pre-softening. Note that the following pre-softening formulas are mixed with a greater amount of developer—

1. Instant Whip or Lady Clairol Whipped Creme Hair Lightener highly diluted with developer. For example: ¼ oz. Instant Whip to 1-2 ozs. Clairoxide or Pure White Creme Developer.
   
   
2. Ultra-Blue Lady Clairol or Clairolite highly diluted with developer. For example: ¼ oz. Ultra-Blue Lady Clairol to 1 oz. Clairoxide or Pure White Creme Developer.

Pre-Bleaching Before Application Of Tint

Pre-bleaching is necessary if the tint shade is to be lighter than the natural coloring, except when using Miss Clairol. It is not to be confused with the more extensive pre-bleaching required before application of high fashion blonde toners.

A regular-strength mixture is used. The mixture is usually left on from 10 to 20 minutes. The length of time depends upon the degree of lightness desired, and the natural texture of the hair. Coarser hair needs more pre-bleaching time. MIXTURES USED FOR PRE-BLEACHING BEFORE TINTING:

If the hair is not difficult to bleach use 1 part Clairolite or Ultra-Blue Lady Clairol and 2 parts developer. Mix 1 part Lady Clairol Whipped Creme Hair Lightener or Instant Whip Lady Clairol and 2 parts Clair-oxide or Pure White Creme Developer. If using Lady Clairol Creme Hair Lightener, do not whip, simply stir as you would for other Lady Clairol mixtures. Instant Whip or Ultra-Blue may be mixed and applied with applicator.

Bleaching As A Coloring Treatment

Many times bleaching is a complete coloring treatment in itself. In such instances a new color is obtained by removing pigment from hair. As pigment is removed, the hair goes through many changing stages of color as it lightens. The amount of change depends upon the amount of time the bleach is left on and the pigmentation of the hair.

For instance, a natural head of black hair will go from black to brown, to red, to red-gold, to gold, to yellow, and finally to the almost white stage.

This progression is frequently forgotten and leads to misconceptions on the part of hairdressers who feel that stronger bleaches impart red color. This is not the case. What happens is that stronger bleaches reach the red-gold stage of lightening more quickly, while the oil bleaches are slower, and consequently do not reach the same stage in a comparable length of time.

To select the right bleach and the best mixture for the degree of color change desired, see the Lady Clairol comparison chart and the mixing instructions that follow.

How to mix clairol bleaches for best results
How to mix ultra-blue lady clairol

1. Pour 4 ounces Clairoxide in applicator. 2. When Ultra-Blue Protinator is to be used for added speed and bleaching action, make sure it is finely powdered by squeezing the envelope. 3. Then pour the Ultra-Blue Protinator in the applicator. 4. Cover top and shake twice. 5. Add 2 ounces Ultra-Blue Lady Clairol. 6. Now shake vigorously for 20 seconds. Combine in same order when Protinator is not used. When using bowl and brush, combine ingredients in same order, then stir for 30 seconds or until mixture is thick and creamy.

NOTE:

When using Pure White Creme Developer in the applicator, put the Ultra-Blue Lady Clairol in the bottle first. If Protinator is used, pour in next and shake mixture thoroughly before adding the Pure White. Combine in same order when mixing in bowl.
Cremogenized Hair Lightener And Ultra-Blue Lady Clairol Protinator


 
How to mix instant whip lady clairol creme hair lightener:

Pour 4 ounces of Clairoxide or Pure White Creme Developer into applicator bottle. If Lightening Booster is to be added for increased speed and bleaching action, make sure it is finely powdered by crushing envelope with fingers. Then tear the top evenly off the envelope. Using the individual envelope as a funnel, insert it a little way into the neck of the applicator and let Lightening Booster powder flow inside. With finger on top, shake once or twice. Pour in entire 2 ounce bottle of Instant Whip. With finger on top, shake up and down vigorously for about 20 seconds. Mixture will be thick and creamy. When a bowl is used instead of applicator, combine ingredients in same order, then stir with brush or swab stick for 30 seconds or until mixture is thick and creamv.
How to mix lady clairol whipped creme hair lightener:



Mix 2 ounces Lady Clairol, 4 ounces Clairoxide or Pure White Creme Developer in glass or plastic bowl, and add Lightening Booster if increased speed and lightening action is desired. Whip to desired cream consistency using stainless steel beater.
 
How to mix clairolite:

Mix 1 part Clairolite with 2 parts Clairoxide or Pure White Creme Developer in a glass or plastic dish to lighten and brighten as a complete coloring treatment. Use diluted mixture to pre-soften: 1 part Clairolite to 3-4 parts developer.

How to mix blue lightening powder bleach:

Empty contents of package into glass or plastic bowl. Use one package for the average retouch. For virgin hair, additional amounts may be needed. Add from 7 to 8 oz. of Clairoxide, or 8 to 9 oz. of Pure White Creme Developer, stir to make a smooth, creamy paste. If the mixture seems heavy, add from ¼ to ½ oz- more developer.

For Application Of Bleaches See Chapter 9 (pages 82-85)

How to use any lady Clairol When brightening and highlighting
To make only a slight change:

Use glass or plastic bowl. Mix 1 ounce Lady Clairol with 4 ounces Clairoxide or Pure White Creme Developer. Since Lady Clairol lightens quite rapidly, make preliminary strand test described on page 88. For this purpose, use small amount of mixture just prepared. Check exact timing necessary to reach desired shade (usually 1-2 min.). Then proceed with full treatment: Work mixture throughout hair as you would a shampoo. Wait time indicated by previous test. Rinse and shampoo immediately. Treatment is complete.

Clairol Silver Drops

Clairol has an exclusive product, Silver Drops, that is used to drab bleached and tinted hair. A few drops added to Neutral Clairolite, Lady Clairol Whipped Creme Hair Lightener or Instant Whip will help eliminate unwanted red or gold tones. Silver Drops is a concentrated color, and the lighter the hair color, the less Silver Drops required.

Use Silver Drops only with Neutral Clairolite as the other shades of Clairolite already contain coloring. Do not use it with Ultra-Blue or Blue Lightening since they both have special drabber in their formulas.

How To Use Silver Drops

1. For bleaching blonde or gray hair, add 5 to 10 Silver Drops to regular Lady Clairol mixture, or 2 to 5 Silver Drops to regular Neutral Clairolite mixture.
   
   
2. For bleaching light brown hair, add 10 to 15 Silver Drops to regular Lady Clairol mixture, or 2 to 10 Silver Drops to regular Neutral Clairolite mixture.
   
   
3. For bleaching dark brown or black hair, add 15 to 20 Silver Drops to regular Lady Clairol mixture or 4 to 12 Silver Drops to regular Neutral Clairolite mixture.

The number of Silver Drops may be varied to fit the individual case, however, never use more than 25 Silver Drops.

A preliminary patch test is necessary when Silver Drops is added to any formula.

Do's And Don'ts For Bleaching

Do's

1. Always use Clairoxide, Pure White Creme Developer or any fresh 20-volume hydrogen peroxide.
   
   
2. Mix the bleach in a plastic or glass bowl or Clairol applicator.
   
   
3. Make a preliminary strand test to determine proper timing and condition of the hair.
   
   
4. Wear rubber gloves during the entire treatment.
   
   
5. Use Lightening Booster only with Lady Clairol Whipped Creme Hair Lightener or Instant Whip.
   
   
6. Do use Clairol Shampoo for Bleached and Toned hair.
   

Don'ts

1. Don't prepare, mix, or store the bleaching mixture in a closed container because it may burst.
   
2. Don't apply bleaches to hair coated with metallic dyes, compound hennas, or restorers without first reconditioning the hair to remove such substances. Re-test for these substances before the bleach is applied. (See 1-20 test, page 158)
   
   
3. Don't let the bleach contact the area around the eyes.
   
   
4. Don't use bleaches if the scalp has open cuts or abrasions.
   
   
5. Don't use Protinator with any bleach other than Ultra-Blue Lady Clairol.
   
   
6. Don't brush or pre-shampoo before using bleach.
   

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