Chapter 6 - Clairol Salon Formula Oil Shampoo Tint

Clairol Salon Formula, an oil shampoo tint, is a permanent, penetrating type of haircoloring and one of the finest tints you can use. Its natural looking colors leave the hair in the best possible condition. In addition to color, Salon Formula contains a superfine, liquid shampoo that cleanses the hair as it colors. It is formulated with fine conditioning oils that leave the hair soft and lustrous.

Color Range

Salon Formula comes in a wide range of colors to match or change the natural shade of the hair. There are 34 colors in the regular series.

To make color selection easier and more accurate, the colors have been divided into three groups according to their basic tone values. Shades with no red are classified as Drab; those with some red or gold tones are in the Warm series and those with a great deal of red are included in the Very Warm series.

A new and exciting series of colors is called the Red Fashion Colors. These frankly red shades range from light to deep, fiery reds.

Salon Formula Colors

Drab series—                                     warm series —gold or
No red or gold                        red gold tones

9A Light Ash Blonde                11A Light Blonde
10B Medium Ash Blonde         10A Golden Blonde
15Ash Blonde                          IOC Light Titian Blonde
15G Light Drab Blonde            10D Deep Golden Blonde
15E Dark Ash Blonde              11B Reddish Blonde
16 Light Drab Brown                15A Medium Blonde
17 Medium Drab Brown           15C Dark Titian Blonde
18 Dark Drab Brown               11    Light Golden Brown
19 Black                                  15D Golden Brown
20 Blue-Black                          11ID Deep Golden Brown

Very Warm Series—Red Tones

Extra Lite C                              15B Mink Brown
Extra Lite D                              16A Light Warm Brown
12A Light Auburn                     16C Light Brown
12B Light Bronze Auburn         16B Russet Brown
14A Dark Auburn                    17A Medium Warm Brown
14B Dark Bronze Auburn         18A Dark Warm Brown
10 Honey Brown
12 Titian Brown

In addition to these colors there are Salon Formula Creme Toners, for which hair must be highly pre-bleached, see Chapter 10—"How To Apply Creme Toners."

Color Selection For Salon Formula

The colors on the Salon Formula Color Chart show the results obtained when these colors are used on 100% gray or white hair. For this reason, the following two factors must be considered when selecting a Salon Formula color:

1. The percentage of white or gray in the hair. The white and gray hairs will develop to the exact shade selected, but the natural pigment in the hair will be a deeper shade.
   
   
2. The color of the patron's own natural hair, and the amount of natural red pigment present.

 Rules On Color Selection

Here are some general rules for selecting a Salon Formula color:

1. If the patron is 100% gray, use the color on the Color Chart which exactly matches the shade desired.
   
   
2. If the patron is 50% gray, select a color one shade lighter than the final shade desired.
   
   
3. If the patron is 25% gray or less, select a color two shades lighter than the final shade desired.
   
   
4. If the patron desires a shade lighter than her natural color, and she wants to cover her gray hair, the hair must first be pre-bleached. This is essential because, in using a shampoo tint like Salon Formula, the hair will become darker if color is applied to color. The basic rule of Oil Shampoo Tinting is "color on color goes darker."

Natural Haircolor Affects Color Selection

In selecting a Salon Formula color, take into consideration the natural hair shade and its tones.

For example, if the hair naturally contains a great deal of red pigment and a Warm or Very Warm color is used, the final result may be too red. To prevent this, it is preferable to use a Drab color, although, even with a Drab color, a warm tone may result. Here is an example to show how percentage of gray and natural pigmentation will affect color selection:

A patron with virgin hair has 25 % gray and 75 % dark, drab brown pigment. The brown pigment matches Number 18 Dark Drab Brown on the Color Chart. In order to cover the gray and achieve a shade as close as possible to the natural shade, follow this rule: With 25% gray or less, select a color two shades lighter than the final shade desired. Pick Number 16 Light Drab Brown.

However, if the patron desires a warmer tone, the equivalent number in the Very Warm series should be used. This number, as you will see on the Chart, is 16A Light Warm Brown.

Now let us suppose that a patron has the same 25% gray, but this time has 75 % brown hair which is a dark, warm shade rather than a dark drab shade. Here the color matched in the Chart is 18A Dark Warm Brown, so select a color two shades lighter, which is 16A. If, however, the patron desires the least amount of red or warmth possible, Number 16 is to be used. The effect of Number 16 on this type of hair will be to drab the red or warm tones, whereas 16A will increase the amount of warmth or red tones.
When Pre-Bleaching Is Necessary

It is important to remember when using a shampoo tint that there is no lightening action. Thus, if the patron desires a shade lighter than her natural haircolor, you must pre-bleach before the coloring is applied.

When pre-bleaching, the hair should be made one or two shades lighter than the final color selected. This allows for the additional color that the hair will take on during the coloring process.

Pre-softening is necessary when the patron has extremely resistant hair which is difficult to color. For pre-softening, the bleach is left on for just a few minutes so that little shade change takes place.

Complete instructions on methods of pre-bleaching and pre-softening may be found in Chapter 8 "Bleaching."

How To Apply Salon Formula Preliminary

1. Take Preliminary Patch and Preliminary Strand tests.
2. Shampoo the hair gently with Clairol Shampoo for Tinted Hair, pre bleaching if necessary. Rinse thoroughly. It is advisable after the water rinse to use a Clairol Sylk Rinse to free the hair from any remaining soap film or mineral deposit.
3. Towel dry hair. Do not dry completely. It is preferable to apply tint to damp hair because:

a. It is easier to part damp hair.

b. Water softens the hair, leaving the cuticle layer open and enabling the tint to penetrate faster.

c. Over-porous areas of the hair shaft usually retain more moisture when the hair is not completely dried. This prevents these areas from absorbing too much color and the tint application will be more even.

Clairol Salon Formula Application To Virgin Hair
I- Mix 1 bottle (¾ oz.) Salon Formula with ¾ oz. Clairoxide or Pure White Creme Developer immediately before starting application.


2. After pre-bleaehing when necessary, shampoo hair thoroughly, rinse with Clairol Sylk and towel dry. Divide hair in four equal sections.
3. Apply tint to three-fourths of strand.


4. Allow color to develop from 10 to 20 minutes.

5. Blend tint by combing it down to the ends of the hair when the color has almost fully developed.

6. Make final test for color to see that color is even from scalp to ends.


7. Rinse tint from hair with warm water and shampoo thoroughly.

Mixing Salon Formula

Pour 1 bottle (¾ oz.) Clairol Salon Formula into a glass or plastic dish. Add an equal amount (¾ oz.) Clairoxide or Pure White Creme Developer.

Do not prepare mixture until you are ready to apply it. It must not be allowed to stand in the dish longer than necessary or the color will develop in the dish rather than on the hair.

Application To Virgin Hair

1. Divide hair in four equal sections.
   
   
2. Apply tint ¾ of the strand, starting at the scalp. Begin applying tint mixture at the back of the head. If color at the back develops before the color on the rest of the head this section may be rinsed while the color continues to develop in the other sections. However, if the front section is predominantly gray, then application should begin in the front.
   
   
3. Allow color to develop from 10 to 20 minutes.
   
   
4. Test for color. Strand tests should be made by washing strand with warm, soapy water and partially drying. Test frequently.
   
   
5. Apply remaining tint to ends and work into a soap cap through out entire head when color begins to develop. Allow color to develop until it is even from scalp to ends.
   
   
6. Test again for color. If the test shows more development is needed, reapply color to test strand and allow tint to remain on hair until color has fully developed.
   
   
7. Rinse tint from hair with warm water. Shampoo thoroughly with Clairol Shampoo for Tinted Hair. Rub scalp as little as possible

Application For Retouch Preliminary

1. Take Preliminary Patch and Strand tests just as you did for the virgin head. If you are satisfied with the color used on the previous application, use that color. If not, select one which will give the result you wish.
   
   
2. Shampoo hair, rinse with Clairol Sylk, and towel dry. (Pre-bleach new growth if necessary before shampooing.)
   
   
3. Prepare tint mixture as for virgin hair.

Application

1. Section hair in four equal parts.
   
   
2. Begin application of tint by outlining partings. Start at back of head, unless there is a preponderance of gray at the front.
   
   
3. Apply tint to new growth only, making partings Y^ inch wide. Be careful not to overlap from the new growth on to the already tinted portion. If this happens, wipe off excess immediately. Failure to do this will develop a line of demarcation.
   
   
4. Allow coloring to develop for 5 minutes. Then take a towel or a piece of cotton and partially dry the tint at the hairline and temples. This will retard color development in these areas which are more receptive to tint. Do not be concerned if you still see some gray hair. The tint can be reapplied when blending through entire strand.
   
   
5. Test for color frequently by making strand test.
   
   
6. Comb the tint down the strand for an inch or two when the strand test shows color has almost fully developed. Blend to avoid a line of demarcation.

If you observe dry spots during the process, reapply tint to these spots.


7. Dilute remaining tint with an equal amount of Clairol Shampoo for Tinted Hair. Pour this mixture on the ends first and work into a soap cap throughout the entire head of hair. If ends are damaged, the tint should be diluted with more than an equal amount of shampoo to avoid dark ends or dark streaks.
   
   
8. Allow mixture to remain on head, testing frequently for color, until the shade is evenly developed from scalp to ends.
   
   
9. Rinse the hair and shampoo with Clairol Shampoo for Tinted Hair

Development Time

The development time in a tint application is greatly influenced by many factors. Among them are the temperature of the room, the temperature of the tint mixture and the degree of moisture in the air.

Heat speeds up development; cold retards it.

Since these conditions are hard to control, it is advisable to test frequently for color, even on patrons who have been using the same color for a period of years.

With Clairol Salon Formula, color development begins as soon as the tint mixture is applied to the hair, and continues until the color has developed to the color indicated on the label. If the color is left on the hair longer, it will not go darker unless the hair has been previously damaged or abused.

With many tints on the market, development does not start until the mixture has been on the hair for several minutes and continues as long as the hair is kept wet with tint. Thus, development can go on even after the color indicated on the bottle has been reached, resulting in a final color which is too dark and, in some cases, goes completely black.

Salon Formula Retouch Application


1. After sectioning hair in four equal parts, apply tint to partline.

2. Apply tint to new growth only, making partings ¼ inch wide.

3. Test frequently for color.

4. When color has almost fully developed, comb tint down strand for an inch or two, to avoid line of demarcation.

5. Dilute tint with an equal amount of shampoo and pour mixture over ends, working it into a soap cap.

6. Allow mixture to remain on head, testing frequently for color, until the shade is evenly developed from scalp to ends. Then rinse and shampoo.

Reasons For Unsatisfactory Results

Some of the; most common causes of unsatisfactory results in shampoo tinting are:

1. The developer is too weak. This is usually caused by the use of old merchandise, by exposure to air, or the use of an inferior product.
   
   
2. The tint mixture is allowed to stand in the dish too long before use.
   
   
3. Tint is applied to hair previously treated with a coating color, such as metallic dyes.
   
   
4. Tint is applied to damaged hair.
   
   
5. Tint may be too old. Tint bottles are usually labeled with the expiration date beyond which they should not be used.
   
   
6. Hair is not thoroughly shampooed.
   
   
7. Improper color selection.
   
   
8. Improper pre-bleaching.
   
   
9. Uneven application of the tint. This occurs many times when too much tint is used in the first brush strokes and not enough is left for the end of the application.
   
10. The tint is not applied quickly enough so that the part applied last is partially oxidized, and will not reach the desired depth.

Do's And Don'ts For Salon Formula

Do's

1. Always use Clairoxide, Pure White Creme Developer or fresh, 20-volume peroxide.
   
   
2. Keep merchandise at room temperature for best results.
   
   
3. Wear rubber gloves throughout treatment.
   
   
4. Always pre-shampoo for best results.
   
   
5. Apply the tint as rapidly as possible for even results.
   
   
6. On porous or damaged ends, make sure the balance of the tint is diluted sufficiently when blending through the ends.
   
   
7. Check the tint development much sooner at the temples and hairline.
   
   
8. For a shade lighter than natural, always pre-bleach.

Don'ts

1. Don't save unused mixtures. Discard the surplus.
   
   
2. Don't use shampoo tint on eyelashes or eyebrows.
   
   
3. Don't use metal dishes.
   
   
4. Don't massage the scalp while tint is developing or after the tinting application is finished.
   
   
5. Don't apply tint if scalp has any cuts, sores or abrasions.
   
   
6. Don't comb through the shaft to blend the color until the color at the root is almost fully developed.
   
   
7. Don't apply on hair treated with metallic dyes, compound hennas, or so-called color restorers. Discoloration or breakage may result.
   
   
8. Don't allow the bleach or tint to contact the area in or around the eyes.

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